Every time white smoke curls above the Vatican, all eyes turn to St. Peter’s Basilica. But few know what lies beneath its Baroque façade: the tomb of the Apostle Peter, the ruins of a forgotten church, and 1,700 years of history layered in stone. Join us as we dig into the story behind the conclave’s grand stage — from pagan Rome to popes, power, and one very persistent fisherman.
Avoid the crowds: Scroll down for LUX Travel tips!
1. St. Peter's: A fisherman was buried here — long before it became holy ground
It all began with a fisherman from Galilee. Peter, disciple of Jesus, was recognized in the early church as the one to lead the church. According to tradition, he came to Rome and was crucified under Emperor Nero, upside down – because he thought it was too much honor to suffer the same death as Jesus, so the story goes. His martyrdom probably took place around the year 64, in the *Circus of Nero* on Vatican Hill.
As was customary at the time, Peter was buried close to the site of his execution: in a necropolis along the Via Cornelia. A modest cult monument was erected above his tomb in the second century – the so-called tropaion, a small memorial that showed pilgrims the way to the apostle’s tomb.
2. The first basilica was imperial, enormous — and built by a pagan
In the early fourth century, the emperor Constantine converted to Christianity. He had a vast basilica built on the tomb of Peter: an architectural statement that brought the faith from persecution to the center of power.
Construction began around 315 and took decades. The basilica had five naves separated by rows of columns – reused from pagan temples – with a wide atrium in front. The apse and altar were precisely positioned over the tomb of Peter. According to a 14th-century pilgrim, the basilica was “as long as a crossbow can shoot”.
Its construction required massive engineering. Because the Vatican Hill slopes steeply, thousands of tons of earth had to be moved to create a level construction site. But the result was worth it: one of the largest churches in the ancient world, with a spiritual centerpiece that drew pilgrims from far and wide.
3. The old basilica had Gothic touches — even in Rome
During the Middle Ages, Constantine’s Basilica became the center of Christianity. Popes were crowned there, pilgrims came in droves, and the interior became more and more richly decorated.
The crypt under the altar was expanded into a deambulatory, a walkway around the tomb, so that pilgrims could say their prayers. In the wall was a fenestella: a small window through which the faithful could put their heads or a cloth to be as close as possible to Peter.
Over the centuries, chapels, altars and even Gothic elements were added. For example, a canopy (ciborium) was placed over the tomb, probably designed by Arnolfo di Cambio. Although Rome never really became “fully Gothic,” we see influences of northern Italian Gothic here and there: pointed arches, pinnacles, and vertical lines – modest but present.
Sign up for free!
Sign up for LuxLetters – the monthly newsletter that keeps you updated on new content at churchheritage.eu.
4. St. Peter’s was torn down by a man called the “master of destruction”
By the end of the Middle Ages, the Constantinian Basilica was in bad shape. Rainwater leaked through the roof, and the walls began to crack. Several popes considered restoration, but it was Pope Julius II who literally tied the knot in 1506.
Under the guise of prestige as well as devotion, he commissioned the architect Donato Bramante to build an entirely new basilica. Not next door, but on the site of the old one. And that meant demolition. Bramante was soon nicknamed Maestro Ruinante, “the master of destruction”.
His design – a central dome in the shape of a Greek cross – was revolutionary. But it also marked the end of a millennium of church history. Only a few elements of the old basilica remained.
5. Bramante started it, Rafael struggled — Michelangelo finished the impossible
When Bramante first designed the new St. Peter’s in 1506, he imagined a perfect Greek cross crowned with a monumental dome. But his plans were vague, his foundations uncertain — and after his death, architects like Raphael and Sangallo struggled to move things forward. The dome remained a dream on paper.
Enter Michelangelo, at age 71. He scrapped most of his predecessors’ ideas and brought clarity, structure, and boldness. Drawing inspiration from the Pantheon, he designed a massive dome that wasn’t just beautiful, but also buildable. His engineering skills matched his artistic genius. Though he died before the dome was completed, his design guided the work to the finish.
Without Michelangelo, St. Peter’s might still have been an open-air ruin. With him, it gained its most iconic feature — one that still defines the Roman skyline today.
6. Peter’s tomb is still there — and you can visit it
You might think that Bramante made everything disappear, but that’s not entirely true. Thanks to excavations in the 20th century (the famous Scavi), we know that under the present church there are still traces of the ancient necropolis, as well as the tomb of Peter.
The tropaion, the ancient granite memorial stone above the tomb, has been recovered, along with a niche described by the priest Gaius around the year 200.
And yes – in 1950, Pope Pius XII declared that “the tomb of Peter has been found,” although he stressed that there was no definitive proof that the bone remains actually belonged to the apostle.
Research in 1953 indicated that the bone remains found belonged to a man between 60 and 70 years old. In 1968, Pope Paul VI confirmed this by stating that the bones had indeed been “convincingly identified” as those of the Apostle Peter. Scientists still debate the details, but the symbolic value is undeniable.
Pilgrims today can still descend through the Confessio, a sunken chapel in front of the main altar, to pray at Peter’s tomb. A mosaic of Christ from the 8th century looks down on them.
The Conclave Today: A Tradition Cast in Stone
As the cardinals cast their votes inside the Sistine Chapel, thousands wait outside in quiet anticipation. All eyes are on the balcony above Bernini’s colonnade, and the little chimney that will—perhaps—send out white smoke. While the world looks forward, history continues its steady course inside: in the same city, on the same spot, above the same fisherman’s grave.
St. Peter’s is not just the baroque giant we know today. It is a living archive of 1,700 years of Church history: from a martyr’s tomb to an imperial basilica, from Gothic relics to Baroque theater, from the Apostle Peter to Pope Francis.
When the new pope gives his first blessing from the balcony, he will do so over the tomb of his distant predecessor, a fisherman from Galilee. The rock on which the Church was built is literally at his feet.
About the St. Peter's Basilica
- Total length: 218.7 meters (including portico)
- Width at the transept: 154.8 meters
- Height of the nave: 46 meters
- Height of the dome (interior): 119 meters
- Height of cupola (exterior, to top of cross): 136.5 meters
- Diameter of cupola (interior): 42.6 meters
- Diameter of dome (exterior): 58.9 meters
- Weight of the Dome: 56 million pounds
- Number of columns: 778
- Number of statues: 395
- Number of altars: 44
- Number of mosaics: 135
- Capacity: Approximately 60,000 people
The current St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City was built between 1506 and 1626. With a surface area of over 15,000 square meters and a capacity of around 60,000 people, it ranks among the largest churches in the world. The dome, designed by Michelangelo, reaches a height of 136 meters (to the top of the cross). The basilica follows a Latin cross floor plan, with a long nave and a large transept.
The basilica was designed in phases by several successive architects, including Donato Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Carlo Maderno, and Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Bramante introduced a central Greek cross plan; Michelangelo added the dome; Maderno extended the nave into a Latin cross; and Bernini designed the colonnaded square and the bronze baldachin above the main altar.
The current church was built on the site of the earlier Constantinian basilica from the 4th century. In 1506, Pope Julius II commissioned a complete reconstruction. The old church was gradually demolished and replaced. The project took over 120 years to complete, with multiple changes in papal leadership and architectural direction. On November 18, 1626, the new St. Peter’s Basilica was officially consecrated by Pope Urban VIII.
LUX Travel Tips - Rome
Rome is glorious, chaotic, and almost always full — of tourists, traffic, and timeless beauty. To truly enjoy the Eternal City, timing is everything: book well in advance and avoid the high season if you can. Early mornings and late evenings are your best friend, especially around the Vatican and Colosseum. In LUX Travel Tips – Rome we share where to go, when to go, and how to experience the city beyond the crowds.
When to go
- Late April to early June and mid-September to October are ideal — warm days, fewer crowds, and golden evening light.
- Avoid July and August if you can: it’s hot, packed, and locals flee the city.
- Winter (Dec–Feb) is quiet and atmospheric (especially around Christmas), but some sites close early.
- And always book ahead — Rome rarely has a low season, just slightly less chaos.
Where to go
- If you visit the St. Peter’s Basilica, make sure you’ll see the tombs and the dome for the full experience. This 1,5 audio guide tour is definitely worth the money!
- Book your accommodation in Rome here. My favorite neighborhoods: 1. Trastevere. Charming, lively, and full of cobbled streets and local eateries — the perfect mix of Roman life and romance. 2. Parioli. Leafy, elegant, and just outside the crowds. Great for parks, museums, and stylish stays like The Hoxton. 3. Monti. Trendy but local. Near the Colosseum, with cool cafés, boutiques, and a relaxed vibe.
G-Rough is your raw-luxury home in Rome — part museum, part design dream.
Housed in a 16th-century palazzo, it blends peeling plaster, bold furniture, and Mad Men charm with views of Sant’Agnese and suites you won’t want to leave.The Hoxton Rome is a fresh, stylish and affordable new stay in the green Parioli district — far from the tourist crowds, close to everything you want. Think 1970s charm, local design, a sunny terrace and that unmistakable Hoxton vibe in a classic Roman building.
- Rent a bike at Bikeology, an excellent way to discover the city!
