Massa Marittima, a hidden gem in Tuscany and arguably one of the most beautiful towns in the region. Unlike the bustling tourist spots of Siena or Florence, Massa Marittima is a peaceful and stunning city (check my Travel Tips down this page). The highlight of my visit was the Cathedral of San Cerbone.
Massa Marittima Cathedral
Upon entering the town through the old Porta Eleonora you are immediately greeted by a large square. The standout feature here is the ‘Cattedrale di San Cerbone,’ built diagonally across the square. This 58-meter-long church is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Cerbone, and is a prime example of Romanesque-Pisan architecture.
Construction began in the 12th century, showcasing the prosperity of Massa Marittima, which at the time was flourishing due to its lucrative mining industry, including iron and copper. This wealth is reflected in the cathedral’s grand design, fitting for a much larger city.
Facade: Sienese Gothic
The exterior is immediately striking with its bichromatic patterns of white and dark stones, a typical Tuscan feature. The rose window, a Sienese element added in the 13th century, creates fascinating light effects inside the cathedral.
Lantern: Old or New?
The lantern in the middle of the transept was added in the 15th century – in my opinion, it does not entirely harmonize with the rest of the building due to the stones used. However, the interior is particularly remarkable.
Until recently, it was believed that the interior dome was a much later addition to the original Romanesque structure of the cathedral. However, extensive research and restorations between 2011 and 2015 revealed that this dome was completed around 1250, contemporaneous with the rest of the building.
This discovery was made possible through advanced techniques such as 3D photographic measurements and stratigraphic archaeological analyses conducted by experts from the Universities of Siena and Pisa. These analyses examine different ground layers at an excavation site to determine their relative ages and the sequence of events that occurred there.
The dome is richly decorated with geometric patterns and figurative elements and is now recognized as a fundamental part of the original medieval design.
The church is built as a classic three-aisled basilica. The crypt beneath the choir houses the relics of San Cerbone, a 6th-century bishop known for his protection against wild animals. Don’t miss the old baptismal font from 1267.
Perhaps the most beautiful aspect of this church is its atmosphere. Unlike the bustling Florence Cathedral, there is a serene tranquility here. From the steps in front of the entrance, you have a wonderful view of the square with its medieval houses.
After visiting the cathedral, there is still much more to see in the town. Another highlight is the old city wall, which rises meters high. You can take an elevator up for a fantastic view over the town.
After all this beauty, if you’re hungry, be sure to grab a bite at one of the cozy restaurants in town. You can enjoy a lovely meal at Cafe Le Logge on the square. At Osteria da Tronca, in a small alley parallel to the main street, they serve delicious pasta and excellent wines.
Massa Marittima is a town you must not miss when you are in Tuscany!
About the cattedrale di san cerbone
- Building period: 1036 – 1287
- Lenght: 65 m
- Width: 21 m
- High (vault): 20 m
- Campanile: 38 m
The cathedral is dedicated to San Cerbone, the patron saint of Massa Marittima, whose relics are housed within the cathedral.
The cathedral is an excellent example of Romanesque architecture with a transition to Gothic elements. The façade is simple yet elegant, with a series of blind arches and decorative elements typical of the Romanesque style. The cathedral measures 58.72 metres (192.7 ft) by 18 metres (59 ft) and is built on the ground plan of a Latin cross.
The bell tower is the original 13th-century one in the lower part while the upper area is a 19th-century addition. The polygonal tambour, standing at 37.86 metres (124.2 ft), is from the 15th century.
LUX Travel Tips
- We had an excellent dinner at ‘Osteria da Tronca’, just 1 minute walk from the cathedral. It’s a charming establishment that offers a delightful dining experience.
- Albergo Il Girifalco is just a 10-minute walk from the city centre. Friendly staff, a nice pool and stunning sunset views!
- Hotel Massa Vecchia is located in the countryside (just outside the city), ideal for cyclists and nature lovers. Guests appreciate the tranquil setting and excellent service.
- If you visit the city with a group (4-6 persons), this Villa del Borgo is an excellent choice!
