“It’s hard not to be impressed by this place,” says Tournai Cathedral guide Francis Vande Putte, pointing up toward the vaults. “Everyone who enters here looks up first. You simply can’t help it.”
The ‘Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Tournai’ rises like a fortress above the city. Five towers, each 83 meters high, perfectly symmetrical around the crossing of nave and transept. No other cathedral in Europe looks like this. And that’s no accident.
A Message in Stone
“In the 12th century, Tournai wanted to make something very clear,” Francis explains. “These towers are a statement. A claim.”
A claim to what?
Episcopal independence
For centuries, Tournai was the seat of its own bishop. But in the 12th century, that status came under threat. By building five imposing towers — not the usual two, like in Reims or Paris — the city sent a clear message: we are important enough to deserve our own bishop.
Heavenly dignity
According to Francis, the five towers also represent the heavenly Jerusalem — the theological ideal of the perfect, divine city. Five towers, arranged around the heart of the church, say in stone: this is not just a church — it is a sacred city in miniature.
Architectural identity
Where other cathedrals chose a classic twin-towered west façade, Tournai opted for a powerful, central cluster. No imitation, but bold originality. “Tournai says: look how differently we dare to build.”
Tournai limestone
No trucks, no cranes, no stonecutters from Italy — the builders of Tournai Cathedral didn’t have to look far. Beneath their feet was everything they needed: Tournai limestone, bluish-grey, solid, and found all around the region.
This local stone didn’t just shape the cathedral’s appearance — it helped define its identity. Soft enough when freshly quarried to allow fine carving, it hardened over time into a material as tough as granite. No surprise then that Tournai’s quarries supplied not just local churches, but also exported blocks to England and Normandy.
You could say: this cathedral is built from the DNA of its own city.
Five or Seven Towers?
There’s a common claim that the cathedral was originally meant to have seven towers. But that’s not quite true. Two towers were planned for the western façade, but never completed. “They only made it up to the second level,” Francis explains. The five finished towers replaced that idea — more striking, more symbolic.
Notre-Dame de Tournai: A Transitional Cathedral
Tournai Cathedral is a rare example of a building where you can literally see the shift from Romanesque to Gothic. “The transept illustrates that transition beautifully,” says Francis. “I often point out the sculptures, capitals, and columns. You can see the style evolving right before your eyes.”
In terms of style, the cathedral is a forerunner of the Gothic. Only the choir — rebuilt in the 13th century — is in pure Gothic style. The cathedral shows how the architecture of the Île-de-France, the Rhineland, and Normandy influenced one another. With its imposing dimensions, the cathedral is a typical example of the school north of the Seine. They built large structures — precursors to the expansive Gothic cathedrals.
What Not to Miss
So what truly makes this cathedral special? According to Francis: “That there has been a cathedral on this exact spot since the time of the Merovingians. And that the building has constantly adapted to new architectural trends. It’s not a frozen monument — it’s a living one.”
When asked about his favourite spot in the cathedral, Francis pauses. “Perhaps the Romanesque wall paintings from around 1160. But they haven’t been visible for 25 years, just like some of the major paintings.”
Then he smiles. “But you know what’s truly magical? The play of light from the east, under the crossing, just before midday. Most visitors never notice it. So if you can — visit around that time.”
The Road Ahead
Will the cathedral still be here in centuries to come? “That depends on the commitment of public authorities, and on whether the city realises that without this cathedral, Tournai would have long been forgotten. Believe me, our visitors understand that better than some of the local officials.”
About the Cathedrale Notre-dame de tournai
- Building period: 1140-1255
- Length: 134 m
- Width (transept exterior): 67 m
- Height (nave vault): 26 m
- Height (choir vault): 36 m
- Height (towers): 83 m
The Cathedral of Our Lady in Tournai (Onze-Lieve-Vrouw van Doornik) is one of Belgium’s most extraordinary religious buildings and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000
The structure uniquely blends three architectural styles: a massive Romanesque nave, a bold early Gothic transept with five equal towers, and a soaring High Gothic choir inspired by cathedrals like Amiens.
The main structure of the cathedral was built between approximately 1140 and 1255, with the Romanesque parts (nave and transept) constructed in the 12th century and the Gothic choir completed in 1255. However, additional buildings such as sacristies, treasuries, and chapels were added up until the 17th century, which explains the end date of 1700.
Inside, visitors can admire masterpieces such as the Renaissance rood screen by Cornelis Floris (1573), stained glass by Arnoult of Nijmegen (1507), and a painting by Rubens in the Saint Louis Chapel. Despite damage from a tornado in 1999, ongoing restoration has preserved the cathedral’s splendour – and revealed even more of its hidden architectural secrets.
LUX Travel Tips
- If you would like to book a guided tour with Francis Vande Putte, please contact VisitTournai.
- You can do your own walking tour with this downloadable map
- If you prefer you own appartment, Les Camuches de la Banque is an excellent choice! Located just 500 meters from the cathedral. Spacious and modern rooms and appartments.
- We had a very nice dinner at La Petite Madeleine. As they state it on their website: “a cuisine based on seasonal, high-quality ingredients, with careful attention to flavour pairings and wine pairings. The chef enjoys creating a journey, telling stories.” And yes, we liked his stories 🙂
