“This church is no ordinary building,” says Pieternel Coenen. She is curator of St. Servatius Basilica (or in Dutch: Sint-Servaas) in Maastricht, the oldest city in the Netherlands. Pieternel lets her gaze wander through the centuries-old space. “You literally feel the history here. From the crypt to the vaults: everywhere are traces of the people who came here to pray, build and admire for centuries.”
The Sint-Servaas Basilica (read the FAQ for the meaning of ‘basilica‘) in Maastricht, the very south of The Netherlands, is no ordinary church indeed. This is the oldest surviving church in the Netherlands. Pilgrims have been coming here for centuries. Emperors held ceremonies there. Canons watched over holy relics there. And behind all this heritage lies a special story.
You are walking in 16 centuries of history here
What makes this church so special? Why did it have such a unique role in European history? And what hidden treasures await the visitor? Pieternel Coenen walks with us through the basilica and reveals the secrets of a building that has been the heart of Maastricht for 16 centuries.
Sint-Servaas Basilica: Built on a Holy Grave
The origins of Sint-Servaas date back to the late 4th century, when a small chapel was built here over the tomb of Aravatius (later: Saint Servatius), the first bishop of Maastricht.
“The Vrijthof as we know it today actually arose around this church,” Coenen explains. “Servaas’ grave became a place of pilgrimage and attracted pilgrims from all over Europe. So Maastricht grew into an important religious center.”
Over the centuries, the church was rebuilt several times. The current basilica, largely built in the 11th and 12th centuries, is one of the finest and first Romanesque churches of the Low Countries.
“That makes this place really special: not only is it the oldest Dutch national monument with a history dating back to the fourth century, it is also the oldest existing church in the Netherlands”. And what’s more, with a royal touch.
Exploring the Sint-Jan’s Cathedral: Walking on the Roof
I climbed the roof of Sint-Jan’s Cathedral and this is my report.
An Imperial Church
Indeed, the church has an imposing (call it “imperial”) appearance. When I walk onto Vrijthof, the church is immediately eye-catching, with its typical semicircular apse and the two choir towers. You don’t have to be a cathedral freak to see similarities to other Romanesque basilicas in the Holy Roman Empire, such as those in Maria Laach, Bonn and Speyer. Coincidence? Certainly not.
From the 10th century on, the Sint-Servaas was under the direct protection of the German emperors. This meant not only financial support, but also exceptional political and religious status.
“The church had a unique position,” says Coenen. “Several of the provosts of the basilica were even chancellors of the Holy Roman Empire. No other church in the Low Countries had such a direct connection with the emperorship.”
This special status was further emphasized in 1039, when Roman-German Emperor Henry III personally consecrated the basilica. “That was an extraordinary moment,” says Coenen. “He even had himself recrowned here, as a symbolic confirmation of his emperorship. That shows how important the Sint-Servaas was within the Holy Roman Empire.”
In the 12th century, the church continued to grow into an imperial church with direct ties to the royal house. The architecture reflects this royal status: the imposing westwork, with the so-called emperor’s lodge, was a sign of prestige and power.
To visit the basilica, I have to go to the main entrance in the North Portal. This does not look very old: it was completed in 1475, as the final part of the Gothic cloister. The statues are even younger: over the centuries almost all of them were lost. Now neo-Gothic statues look down on you as you walk inside.
Romanesque Basilica
The first thing I notice as I walk through the cloister into the basilica is the beautifully painted Gothic vault. This makes it look like a Gothic church, but appearances are deceptive.
“At its core, the basilica is still Romanesque,” Pieternel says. “Just look at the heavy pillars and the round arches.It is characteristic of this building, which has been remodeled and rebuilt so many times.
For the first stone, we have to go way back in time. The building history begins with a burial chapel on the spot where Bishop Aravatius (Servaas) was buried, around the year 384. Excavations have indeed shown that a (stone) building stood at the level of the Servaas crypt.
Crypts have always piqued my interest. They are often the oldest parts of a church. Also here. The guide takes us to the celebration crypt, from where you have access to the Servaas crypt. I’ll tell more about this soon on this website.
Around 560, the burial chapel was replaced by the first serious church. In the meantime, the flow of pilgrims was already well underway. Therefore, a century later another church was built, this time as part of a monastery.
In the 10th century, the entire site was flattened and leveled. Now it was time for the real work. The nave we are in now dates back to that time.
The fourth century AD, what time was this really?
- In the Americas, the indigenous peoples lived in a pre-Columbian world, without any European influence. The Maya had just started building their first major cities.
- In France (then part of the Roman Empire), Emperor Constantine the Great ruled. Christianity was gaining influence, and Gaul was an important part of the Roman Empire.
- In England, Roman rule was still in full swing. The famous Hadrian’s Wall, which the Romans had built to defend the northern border, had stood for more than 200 years. Yet Roman control over Britannia was beginning to crumble.
- In Rome itself, Emperor Constantine the Great had just died (in 337). The empire was split up among his sons, and the Christian church grew rapidly. Just a century later, the Western Roman Empire would collapse.
What Can't You Miss - according to the expert
As curator, Pieternel actually has a dream job. Managing a place with so much history and art treasures is a treat. What would she recommend seeing if you visit the Sint-Servaas basilica?
- Chapter Chapel – Pieternel’s favorite spot is the former chapter chapel. You’ll find the chapter chapel on the second floor of the current treasury.
- East Crypt – The Servaas Crypt already pretty much captures the imagination, but ask your guide about visiting the East Crypt as well. Not many people come here, so extra special if you can. “Here you are literally standing on the original floor level of late Roman Maastricht,” Pieternel points out. You can see some elements from Roman times to the early Middle Ages in addition to a number of sarcophagi.
- Bergportaal (Mountain Portal) – The richly painted sculptures give you a good impression of what a medieval church looked like at that time: colorful. The sculpture dates from the late 12th and early 13th centuries, making it the earliest example of Gothic sculpture in the Low Countries. Of course it was restored here and there, with a result about which opinions are divided. For example, the statue of Simeon (with the baby Jesus) was not recognized as such, and was given the head of Mary.
Important Events in the Sint-Servaas
The seven-year Heiligdomsvaart
The Heiligdomsvaart has taken place in Maastricht every seven years since 1391. This is a centuries-old pilgrimage tradition where the most important relics of Saint Servatius are displayed. The next Heiligdomsvaart will take place from 12 to 22 June 2025.
‘The relics used to be shown to pilgrims from the dwarf gallery, above the presbytery,’ Pieternel says. ‘Thousands of people stood on the Vrijthof, eagerly looking at these sacred objects.’
The 1955 Fire
Until 1955, St Servatius had a neo-Gothic middle tower. Designed by Pierre Cuypers to replace a Baroque middle tower, it was very tall and pointed.
A fire broke out on 9 September 1955, partially burning down the tower. Fortunately, the damage to the church was not too bad, only the spire broke off and damaged a vault. Some of the carillon bells were also lost.
The stump remained standing for over 30 years. In the 1980s, the church was restored for six years. It was decided not to put back a new middle tower.
Frequently Asked Questions
Who was Saint Servaas?
Saint Servaas was the first bishop of Maastricht and played a key role in the Christianisation of the Low Countries. According to the stories, Servaas travelled from Tongeren to Maastricht to die here. ‘He was buried on this spot,’ Pieternel says, ’and that made his grave a holy place.’
Why is St John’s Church so close to the Sint-Servaas?
If you stand on the Vrijthof, next to the Sint-Servaas, you see a striking red church tower, part of the 14th-century St John’s Church. So I wondered: why are these churches so close together?
Sint-Servaas was a pilgrimage church from the very beginning. Every year, many pilgrims visited the graves of the saints in the basilica. For the parishioners, the ‘ordinary’ churchgoers, this left little time and space.
‘St John’s was built in the Middle Ages as a parish church,’ Pieternel explains. ‘This is because a collegiate church always had a parish church next to it for the ‘ordinary’ faithful. It was built within the area of the chapter’s immunity’.
In this way, Sint-Servaas basilica was relieved of its burden.
Are we in the Netherlands now happy with restorer Pierre Cuypers, or not?
Pierre Cuypers (1827-1921) is sometimes called the Dutch Violet-le-Duc. Both men knew each other.
‘Cuypers was of great importance and he is at the foundation of building history research and Dutch monument conservation,’ says Pieternel. ‘He wanted to recreate the Servaas church, and later many other medieval churches and buildings (by today’s standards, of course) a bit too much according to an ideal image.’
Thus, like Violet-le-Duc, he replaced non-Gothic elements, replacing them with neo-Gothic ones, such as the middle tower.
Are we happy with this now?
‘Of course we would have handled things differently now,’ Pieternel admits. ‘After all, monument conservation is always oscillating back and forth between preserving and renewing’.
‘As far as I am concerned, it is an absolute shame that during the last restoration (1985-1990) much of Cuypers’ work in the Servaas church was lost, such as a beautiful marble pulpit. We would definitely have done that differently now. Fortunately, two important murals in the transepts are still present under the plaster. We hope to make those visible again one day’.
Tip: Want to know more about Pierre Cuypers? Then visit the particularly interesting Pierre Cuypershuis in Roermond, the place where he lived and worked, also together with his son.
How is the basilica maintained today?
‘We are lucky to have growing visitor numbers,’ says Pieternel. ‘That helps enormously in keeping the basilica open and in good condition.’
What is the future of Sint-Servaas Basilica?
‘The Servaas will remain the heart of Maastricht,’ says Pieternel determinedly. ‘Both historically, religiously and culturally, the church plays an important role.’
About the Sint-servaas basilica
- Building period: 11th – 12th century, gothic adjustments during the 14th and 15th century
- Lenght: 85 m
- Width: 42,5 m
- Height (tower): 85 m
Saint Servatius Basilica is a prominent Romanesque church in the centre of Maastricht, located between Vrijthof Square, Charles Quint Square and Henric van Veldeke Square. Built on the tomb of Saint Servaas, the first bishop of Maastricht who died in 384, the basilica is considered the oldest surviving church in the Netherlands.
The current structure of the basilica is mainly the result of building phases from the 11th and 12th centuries. The westwork, with its imposing towers, and the eastern apse are characteristic of Romanesque architecture from that period. Gothic elements were added in subsequent centuries, such as the cross vaults and several side chapels.
Besides its architectural significance, Saint Servatius Basilica houses one of the richest treasuries in Europe. Among other things, it houses the shrine of Saint Servatius, also known as the ‘Emergency Chest’. This masterpiece of Maasland noble craftsmanship contains relics of the saint and attracts many visitors and pilgrims every year.
Location: Vrijthof, Maastricht
Opening hours: Open to visitors every day from 10:00-17:00. Open on Sundays from 11:30.
Admission: 5 euros (adults), children up to 17 years free.
Entrance with guided tour: 12.50 (please register at parochiebureau@sintservaas.nl)
Accessibility: the church is easily accessible on foot or by public transport in the centre of Maastricht, with parking facilities nearby for motorists. Check out maastricht-bereikbaar.nl for the tips on accesibility!
More information: sintservaas.nl
LUX Travel Tips - Maastricht
Maastricht is one of the nicest Dutch cities for a (romantic) weekend getaway. The city is more than 2,000 years old, with many visible traces of its history still visible. Sometimes you really do imagine yourself in the Middle Ages.
Naturally, this attracts quite a few tourists. Plenty of choice therefore for cosy or stylish accommodation. In terms of gastronomy, too, you are in the perfect place: Maastricht is known for its rich culinary traditions and offers a wide range of gastronomic experiences. You will find 5 Michelin-starred restaurants, but also authentic eateries where you can eat delicious food at a fair price.
- Book your guided tour which will take you past Maastricht’s most beautiful highlights.
- While exploring Sint-Servaas basilica, don’t forget to venture the romanesque Basilica of Our Lady (at the very cosy Onze Lieve Vrouweplein).
- Just outside the old city, Townhouse Hotel & Spa offers a living room atmosphere. Within 2 minutes of the trainstation and plenty of parking space, this hotel is easy to reach.
- Ever dreamed of sleeping in a real chateau? Try this one: Chateau Neercanne. Located in Maastricht, just 2.9 miles from Basilica of Saint Servatius, Château Neercanne, this really is a time-travel-experience. Built in 1698, this is an extraordinary historical site, where Julius Caesar is said to have fought another battle. Here you can enjoy yourself in style, from the beautiful gardens to the delicious cuisine (awarded a Michelin star), among other things. Maastricht people have a thing for luxury, so do as the Maastricht people do 😉
- Pleny of good restaurants. But Café Sjiek is the most authentic one with delicious local dishes.
