Crowning a scenic hill, Laon once stood as a medieval powerhouse, rivaling Paris and Chartres in wealth and wisdom. From this glory emerged Notre-Dame de Laon, a cathedral shaped by ambition, faith—and an unexpected flow of fine wine. What secrets lie behind its rise and the vineyards that once fueled its greatness?
Medieval Splendor and Notre-Dame de Laon
As early as 1160, Notre-Dame de Laon, a Gothic cathedral, graced the summit of Laon. This architectural marvel emerged concurrently with its iconic counterparts, including Notre-Dame de Paris. Perched in the Picardy region, north of Soissons and a mere 50 kilometers from Reims, Laon exudes medieval elegance.
With its fortified walls, its cathedral adorned with French art, winding alleys, and overhanging houses, Laon boasts a splendid medieval charm. Victor Hugo once praised the city:
"I left Laon this morning, an old town with a cathedral that is another town within it, an immense cathedral that was supposed to have six towers and has only four; four towers almost Byzantine, open like the spires of the 16th century. Everything is beautiful in Laon, the churches, the houses, the surroundings, everything...”
Laon’s Wine-fueled Ascendance
What propelled this relatively modest and now lesser-known town to be a historical powerhouse of knowledge, influence, and wealth? The answer could lie within the vineyards. Historical records trace successful wine production in the vicinity of Laon back to the 7th century. Even monasteries from regions as distant as present-day Belgium and England sourced their wine from Laon.
In the Carolingian era (8th-10th century), Laon’s significance continued to rise. Accumulating wealth through viticulture, the town attracted investments that sparked a cycle of prosperity. This prosperity played a pivotal role in the creation of an exquisite cathedral, mirroring the city’s opulence.
Laon Cathedral: a Guided Tour
Interview with Lucie Legroux, official tour guide of Laon Cathedral. She takes you on an online guided tour into this magnificent early Gothic cathedral.
Laon as Strategic Location and Vineyard Flourish
In the Carolingian era (8th-10th century), Laon’s significance continued to rise. Accumulating wealth through viticulture, the town attracted investments that sparked a cycle of prosperity. This prosperity played a pivotal role in the creation of an exquisite cathedral, mirroring the city’s opulence.
Positioned between the vibrant south of Paris and the northern expanses of the empire, Laon’s strategic location favored the flourishing of its vineyards. Yet, it was the concerted efforts of dedicated vintners that truly propelled the viticultural saga. The influential episcopal seat of Laon, counted among France’s wealthiest, sought to maintain its prestige through vine cultivation.
The Decline and the Cathedral’s Enduring Gaze
What remains of this once-thriving vineyard today? Traces of Europe’s grandest vineyard are sparse, as depicted in the photo. The renown and prosperity of Laon’s vineyard persisted until the 18th century.
However, the upheaval of the revolution dealt a fatal blow, followed by an economic shift toward wheat farming at the expense of viticulture. Yet, the cathedral stands as an enduring testament, surveying the city and the valleys of its illustrious past.
LUX Travel Tips
- Book your guided tour at the local Office de Tourisme
- While exploring Notre-Dame de Laon and its captivating tale, don’t forget to venture to the magnificent Abbey Church of St. Martin, a timeless treasure established in 1124.
- I stayed in an authentique French hotel, Hotel de La Bannière de France. No fancy modern rooms, but warm and cosy and a great host. Located just a 5 minute walk from the cathedral and 5 minutes to St. Martin’s.
- We had an excellent dinner at ‘Le Passage au Verre’, just 1 minute walk from the cathedral. It’s a charming establishment that offers a delightful dining experience.
