In the heart of Amiens stands a masterpiece of Gothic architecture: the Cathedral of Notre-Dame. To truly appreciate the grandeur of this impressive building, it’s best to listen to Pascale Engel, a passionate guide who has been leading visitors through the Amiens cathedral since 2004. Today, she shares her knowledge with you.
For the past 10 years, Pascale has been an official guide in the Amiens cathedral. “My desire to share my passion for history and heritage has grown over time,” she says. “Amiens has a rich history, and it’s my mission to share it.”
The construction of the cathedral remains a mystery
The history of the Cathedral of Amiens is, like many medieval cathedrals, closely tied to fate. The current cathedral was built on the ruins of an earlier Romanesque church that was destroyed by fire in 1218. Pascale explains that Bishop Evrard de Fouilloy quickly decided to build a new, larger cathedral after the fire.
“A larger cathedral was needed to house the relic of the head of John the Baptist, which was brought back by a canon during the Fourth Crusade in 1204,” says Engel. Construction began in 1220, but many of the building records were lost in another fire in 1258, leaving the exact course of construction a mystery.
Notre-Dame d'Amiens: the largest cathedral
The Amiens Cathedral is not just any Gothic church; it is one of the largest of its time and stands out with its unique beauty among many of its contemporaries. “The construction of Amiens took place during a period of large-scale cathedral building in France,” Pascale explains.
After the Basilica of Saint-Denis in 1144, nearby cities like Noyon, Laon, and Senlis, but also Soissons, Saint-Quentin, Paris, and Reims, rebuilt their cathedrals in this new Gothic style, a term that originated in the Renaissance. The Cathedral of Amiens is the largest of the Gothic cathedrals of the 13th century—even Notre-Dame of Paris could fit inside it! Only the cathedrals of Beauvais and Cologne are taller.
Quick construction thanks to financial plan
What makes the construction of the Amiens Cathedral even more remarkable is the speed with which it was realized. Within just fifty years from the start in 1220, the main part of the cathedral was completed. This speed is due to the careful financing plan of Bishop Evrard de Fouilloy. “He not only laid the symbolic first stone, but also ensured that sufficient financial resources were available,” Pascale explains.
The bishop’s plan included contributions from the church itself, the cathedral chapter, and local believers. Despite the fact that the donations from the faithful were often irregular and incidental, the plan made it possible to attract the best craftsmen and complete a construction project of this magnitude relatively quickly. The result is an impressively homogeneous structure, which testifies to the continuity and vision during the construction.
Insider’s tips: What not to miss during your visit
1. Discover 'beau pilier'
It is often the smaller, lesser-known details that attract true enthusiasts. Pascale points to the “Beau Pilier,” an extraordinarily artistically crafted pillar on the outside of the northern tower, which was built from 1375 onwards. This pillar features nine statues, divided into three groups of three. “This pillar is more than just a structural element; it is a political manifesto,” she says. “The statues on it depict important figures from that time, such as Cardinal Jean de la Grange, King Charles V, and the future Charles VI. This pillar confirms the legitimacy of the Valois as kings of France, in contrast to the English rulers.”
2. Climb the towers
A visit to the Amiens Cathedral offers countless impressive experiences, but for guide Pascale Engel, there is one place that stands out: the towers. “From the towers, you have a beautiful view over the city and the surrounding area,” she says enthusiastically. “It’s a unique experience you shouldn’t miss.”
The climb to the top is not for everyone, but those who ascend the spiral staircase in the southern tower are rewarded with a breathtaking panorama. At 30 meters above the King’s Gallery, a spectacular view unfolds over Amiens and the surrounding region. “This is the place where you really feel the grandeur of the cathedral,” Pascale adds. “It’s as if you’re floating above history.”
3. meditate in the labyrint
In the middle of the Amiens Cathedral lies a remarkable remnant from the Middle Ages: the labyrinth. This unique feature, of which only three remain in France (in Amiens, Chartres, and Saint-Quentin), is a testament to the spiritual and symbolic world of medieval believers
The labyrinth in Amiens, which stretches over a length of 234 meters, was completely identically reconstructed between 1894 and 1896, replacing the original. Pilgrims once followed this path on their knees as a symbolic pilgrimage, an alternative to the dangerous journey to the Holy Land. Others walked the labyrinth to gain indulgences.
A special detail is the inscription on the central stone of the labyrinth. It bears the names of the three architects who played a key role in the construction of the cathedral: Robert de Luzarches, to whom the original design is attributed; Thomas de Cormont, who completed the building; and Renaud de Cormont, who succeeded his father and had the inscription added in 1288. The name of Bishop Evrard de Fouilloy, the initiator of the project, is also mentioned, giving the labyrinth not only spiritual but also historical significance.
A narrow escape from destruction (twice!)
The Amiens Cathedral has endured much over the centuries but has always stood firm. During World War I, there was fear that the cathedral would suffer the same fate as the Cathedral of Reims, which was heavily damaged in 1914.
Pascale tells us that the people of Amiens took measures to protect the cathedral: “Fire extinguishers and sandbags were placed, and even Pope Benedict XV intervened with the German Emperor Wilhelm II, who then ordered the cathedral to be spared.” However, the cathedral was hit by a few bombs, but the damage was relatively limited.
Amiens Cathedral: The Miracle of Survival
How did the largest Gothic cathedral in France manage to survive the destruction during World War I? A story of luck, faith and survival.
During World War II, the cathedral narrowly escaped destruction again, thanks to the intervention of German firefighters.
Maintenance poses tricky questions
The maintenance and restoration of the cathedral is an ongoing process, involving both old techniques and modern innovations. In the 19th century, the famous architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc played a crucial role in the restoration of the cathedral. His work, such as the complete redecoration of three chapels in the choir, is still a topic of debate. While some admire his approach, others criticize his interventions as too drastic.
For example, he redesigned the western façade, significantly altering the arch structure of the King’s Gallery and the bell gallery between the towers. Critics accuse him of often presenting the administration with fait accompli by emphasizing the urgency of the work.
Modern restorations have also yielded remarkable results. In 1992, laser cleaning was applied for the first time to clean the stones of the western façade, leading to the discovery of color pigments that proved the sculptures were once brightly colored. This discovery led to the revival of the polychromy of the cathedral during spectacular light shows, bringing the façade back to life as it was in the Middle Ages.
What is beautiful, costs money
The maintenance of the cathedral is expensive. For example, the recent restoration of the organ, including the organ case and woodwork, cost 2.9 million euros. In addition, works were carried out in 2022 to improve the fire prevention system, with a price tag of 1.065 million euros. All of this is funded by the French Ministry of Culture, as the cathedral is owned by the state and protected as a historical monument.
For Pascale and the people of Amiens, the cathedral is more than a historical monument; it is a symbol of hope and resilience. After World War II, when the destroyed city was slowly rebuilt, the cathedral stood tall as a sign of invincibility. “The cathedral stood there, amid the destruction, and became a beacon of hope for the returning inhabitants,” says Pascale.
Although the cathedral is owned by the state and part of the UNESCO World Heritage, its maintenance is an ongoing project. “The current restorations, such as that of the Cavaille-Coll organ, cost millions of euros,” Pascale explains. “Fortunately, most of it is funded by the Ministry of Culture, but it remains a challenge to keep this beautiful building in perfect condition.”
The Amiens cathedral in the future
As Pascale looks to the future, she has no doubt that the cathedral will still be standing 500 years from now. “As long as we continue to care for restoration and maintenance, cathedrals will always be a part of our history,” she says. “They are places where craftsmen and guides keep the stories of the past alive.”
And those stories continue to fascinate, especially when told by someone with as much passion as Pascale. Hopefully, this story will inspire you to take a look for yourself and experience what so many people have experienced for so many years.
Do you want to know more before your visit? Check out the Travel Tips below, or feel free to ask your questions, I’m happy to help!
About the cathedral notre-dame d'amiens
- Building period: 1220-1270
- Length: 145 m
- Width: 70 m
- Height (vault): 42 m
Amiens Cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in France and one of the most harmonious examples of this architectural style. Construction began in 1220 under Bishop Evrard de Fouilloy, replacing an earlier Romanesque cathedral destroyed by fire. The project was primarily led by the architects Robert de Luzarches, Thomas de Cormont, and later his son Renaud de Cormont.
Architectural Features:
- Façade: The west front of the cathedral is richly adorned with statues and sculptures, including the famous “Last Judgment” scene and the “Gallery of Kings.”
- Flying Buttresses: These characteristic Gothic elements help distribute the enormous weight of the vaults, allowing for the cathedral’s majestic height and open interior space.
- Rose Window: The large rose window on the west façade, added in the 16th century, is a stunning example of stained glass artistry, casting a kaleidoscope of colors within the cathedral.
- Interior Space: The interior is grand and airy, featuring a triforium and magnificent stained glass windows that flood the vaults with light.
Unique Facts:
- Relics: The cathedral houses the head of Saint John the Baptist, an important relic that made the cathedral a significant pilgrimage site.
- Colorful History: Originally, the cathedral’s façade was brightly painted. Though these colors have faded over time, during special events, the original polychromy is digitally recreated and projected onto the façade.
- UNESCO World Heritage Site: Since 1981, the cathedral has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
LUX Travel Tips
- Discover the city with a self-guided audio tour
- Discover the cathedral, book your guided tour with the local Tourism Office. Ask for Pascale 😉
- The chef at Au Quotidien, a tiny restaurant near the cathedral, cooks with heart and soul and loves to talk about the dishes on the menu. Seasonal and local food, incredibly delicious, perfectly presented.
- This authentic house, Maison Longuevie, takes you back in history. Spacious rooms for a fair price, just opposite to a green parc. Guests love this place! Book your room here.
- A 150m2 luxious appartment, opposite to the cathedral! That’s why its called ‘Coté Cathédrale‘ 🙂
