Nestled high on a hill, Laon’s Notre-Dame Cathedral towers over the landscape, a majestic reminder of this once powerful city’s rich past. While today, Laon is a quaint, quiet town, its cathedral tells a story of wealth, influence, and mystery that dates back centuries. We spoke to a local guide, Lucie Legroux, who revealed the secrets of this hidden gem in northern France (just 30 min. from Reims). As we step inside, we discover not just a building, but a masterpiece that reflects the faith, art, and ambition of a long-gone era.
Notre-Dame de Laon: A Cathedral that Humbles
When asked what makes this cathedral so special, our guide Lucie is quick to respond. “It’s the sheer length—120 meters—and the extreme symmetry. The light inside is extraordinary. It makes you feel small, insignificant even,” she says. Walking through the soaring nave, it’s easy to see what she means. The proportions of the building, while vast, somehow retain a human scale, a reflection of the medieval understanding of humanity’s place in the universe.
But Laon wasn’t always so modest. In the Middle Ages, it was a city of great importance. “Laon was a royal residence, and the bishop here was also the Duke of France,” Lucie explains. “The city’s wealth came from its high-quality wine, which was served at royal coronations.” The vineyards, which once draped the hillside, are long gone, replaced by forests. The arrival of the railroad brought Bordeaux wines to the region, and the demand for Laon’s white wine declined. Today, you can still walk the old vineyard paths, known locally as the “grimpettes,” a lingering trace of Laon’s golden age
Laon: Forgotten City of World-Class Wine
Laon used to be the centre of power during the Middle Ages, thanks to the world-class wine. Today, the vineyards are gone, the cathedral is left as a silent witness.
A Blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture
Notre-Dame de Laon is one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture, and yet it retains many Romanesque elements. “This is a classic example of early Gothic,” Lucie explains as she gestures towards the ribbed vaults. “Construction began around 1155, and by 1235 it was completed.” The ribbed vaulting and pointed arches that characterize Gothic architecture were groundbreaking at the time. Though impressive, the cathedral’s 24-meter height feels more human in scale compared to later Gothic giants like Beauvais Cathedral, which soars to 48 meters.
Saint-Denis: Source of Inspiration
Laon Cathedral shares a deep connection with the Abbey of Saint-Denis, often credited as the birthplace of Gothic architecture. Both buildings were key in the transition from Romanesque to Gothic, and Laon, in particular, helped refine many of the innovations first seen at Saint-Denis.
In fact, Laon played an important intellectual and architectural role during the 12th century. The city was home to a renowned cathedral school, comparable to the famous schools of Chartres and Paris, and attracted scholars from across Europe. This intellectual center fostered the exchange of ideas that greatly influenced the development of early Gothic architecture.
The cathedral’s design also reflects a transitional phase in architecture. Six ribs converge at each vault, supported by alternating strong and weaker buttresses. Unlike later cathedrals, Laon’s design still features a tribune level—a hallmark of Romanesque style and a relatively high triforium. “This was necessary because the buttresses weren’t yet strong enough to remove this level entirely, as they did in later cathedrals like Soissons or Chartres,” Lucie tells us.
The Flat Choir and a Lost Tower
As we walk through the vast nave, our guide points out another curiosity: the “pierre d’angle,” a small square stone set in the middle of the floor. “We don’t know exactly why it’s here, but it seems that the height of the building was calculated based on this stone.”
The cathedral has also had its share of misfortune. During the French Revolution, one tower was destroyed, and later, lightning claimed another. While some French cathedrals, like Saint-Denis, are seeing their towers rebuilt, no such project is currently planned for Laon.
One of the cathedral’s most distinctive features is its flat choir, an unusual design choice for a Gothic building. “Originally, there was a rounded apse with radiating chapels,” Lucie says. “But it was too small for the 85 canons who served here. So they extended the cathedral by seven bays and flattened the choir, adding a rose window—something unique to Laon.”
The Mystery of the Oxen
Perhaps the most famous—and puzzling—feature of Laon Cathedral is the series of oxen sculptures that adorn its towers. “The meaning behind these sculptures remains a mystery,” Lucie admits. However, she shares with us the legend of the miraculous ox.
When the cathedral was being built, oxen were used to haul stones up the hill. One of them died of exhaustion, and the remaining oxen couldn’t manage the load.
Then, a miraculous white ox appeared, helped pull the load to the top, and disappeared. Since then, they’ve honored the animals by placing them atop the cathedral.” There are sixteen oxen in total, eight on each of the front towers, silently watching over the city.
Laon: A City with Many Stories
Laon is more than just its cathedral. The town boasts one of the largest protected heritage sites in France, and per square meter, it has more historical monuments than any other French city. A guided tour of Notre-Dame (ask for Lucie 😉 can include a climb up 210 steps to the heights of the southern tower, offering stunning views of the surrounding area, or a more leisurely exploration of the cathedral’s fascinating ground floor. There’s no shortage of stories and mysteries to uncover.
When asked if the cathedral holds spiritual significance for Lucie, who describes herself as agnostic, offers a thoughtful response. “For me, it’s a symbol of the deep faith of the people who built it. They pushed the limits of art and craftsmanship to create something truly magnificent.”
And perhaps that’s why, even in an era when church attendance is declining, cathedrals like Laon’s continue to captivate and inspire. “They’re just beautiful,” Lucie says simply. It’s hard to disagree.
Do you want to know more before your visit? Check out the Travel Tips below, or feel free to ask your questions, I’m happy to help!
About the cathedrale notre-dame DE LAON
- Building period: 1155-1235
- Length: 120 m
- Width: 37 m
- Height (vault): 24 m
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon is one of the earliest and most well-preserved examples of early Gothic architecture in France. The cathedral stretches 120 meters in length, with a height of 24 meters under its vaulted ceilings. Its design, with four distinct levels—the great arches, the tribune, the triforium, and the high windows—creates a striking sense of light and space.
One of the most distinctive aspects of Laon Cathedral is its flat choir, which replaced the original rounded apse to accommodate the large college of 85 canons. The eastern end of the building is graced with a rose window—an unusual feature in this location. The towers of the cathedral are famously adorned with 16 sculpted oxen, a nod to the legend of the miraculous ox that helped in the construction. Another curious feature is the “pierre d’angle,” a mysterious cornerstone located in the nave, which may have played a role in the cathedral’s architectural calculations.
LUX Travel Tips
- Book your guided tour at the local Office de Tourisme, ask for Lucie 🙂
- While exploring Notre-Dame de Laon and its captivating tale, don’t forget to venture to the magnificent Abbey Church of St. Martin, a timeless treasure established in 1124.
- I stayed in an authentique French hotel, Hotel de La Banniere de France. No fancy modern rooms, but warm and cosy and a great host. Located just a 5 minute walk from the cathedral and 5 minutes to St. Martin’s. You’ll support this website if you book your hotel with this link (we get a small commission), so thank you!
- We had an excellent dinner at ‘Le Passage au Verre’, just 1 minute walk from the cathedral. It’s a charming establishment that offers a delightful dining experience.
