Always wanted to book a guided tour in a cathedral, but never had the chance? We let the expert come to you! In ‘LUXpert’, we interview an expert in the field of gothic architecture, cathedrals and abbeys. Today: Lucie Legroux, official tour guide for the local tourism office and the magnificant Laon cathedral Notre-Dame de Laon.
Lucie loves history and is passionate about the cathedral Notre-Dame de Laon. We met her when she was taking us up high into the towers of this beautiful monument. Lucie knows a lot about the cathedral and the history of Laon.
When you visit Laon, the cathedral is impossible to miss. From a distance, the church rises from the landscape, aided by the hill upon which Laon is built. Once in the city, you stroll down a medieval street until you reach a square where time seems to stand still. No hustle and bustle, no crowds like at many other cathedrals in France.
Instead, there’s a Tourist Office to the right of the cathedral. Here, you can book guided tours among other things. We had made a reservation online and were introduced to our guide, Lucie.
You are a guide for visitors to the cathedral Notre-Dame de Laon. What is so special about this cathedral?
“What makes this cathedral special is its enormous length (120 meters), brightness, and extreme symmetry. I feel very small inside”.
Laon is now a relatively small town. It used to be different, because apparently, there was enough money to build such an expensive work like a cathedral. Can you explain this?
“Laon was a city of great importance during the medieval period. It was a royal residence. The bishop held the title of Duke and Peer of France, a powerful position near the royal court. The city’s wealth came from its highly regarded wine production, which was served at the royal table during coronations. Today, there are no vineyards left, but you can still explore the old vineyard paths”.
Laon: Forgotten City of World-Class Wine
Laon used to be the centre of power during the Middle Ages, thanks to the world-class wine. Today, the vineyards are gone, the cathedral is left as a silent witness.
Why is the cathedral of Laon such a beautiful example of the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture?
“This cathedral is a great example of what’s known as the early Gothic style. Its vault height is significant but still relatively “human” at 24 meters (compared to 48 meters at Saint Pierre de Beauvais, the highest in France). It features sexpartite rib vaults, a characteristic of the early Gothic period. The elevation has four levels: the great arches, the gallery, the triforium, and the high windows. The gallery still serves as a system of support, as flying buttresses weren’t yet strong enough to remove it, a step taken in newer cathedrals.”
The eastern end of the cathedral is now straight, without radiating chapels. It wasn’t the case originally, was it?
“The flat eastern end is indeed remarkable. Originally, the Notre-Dame de Laon had a rounded chevet with radiating chapels, but it only spanned three bays. This part of the building was too small to accommodate the 85 canons, so they decided to lengthen the cathedral by seven bays and flatten the chevet. This allowed them to add a rose window on the east façade, making it the only cathedral with a rose window in this location.”
Cathedrals often harbor many secrets and interesting facts that are often unknown to the general public. What is the secret of Laon Cathedral?
“There’s a rather intriguing stone called the “cornerstone” in the center of the nave. Its significance isn’t clear, but it seems the cathedral’s height was calculated in relation to this stone. “
“There was also a whalebone suspended at the central portal of the church, brought from England by the canons around 1113. It may have been a metaphor for the sacred horn of the unicorn (a symbol of purity and virginity). After disappearing for several years (around the 18th century), the bone reappeared and is now on display at the municipal museum. It’s more commonly known as the “hanging bone.”
During the Revolution, one tower was destroyed, and later, another by lightning. Is there ever any consideration of rebuilding the lost towers, as is currently happening at Saint-Denis in Paris?
“There are currently no plans for such a project.”
Speaking of towers: Laon Cathedral is known for the oxen on the towers. What do they symbolize?
“The meaning of these sculptures remains very mysterious, as there are no texts explaining why these statues were placed there. The only known explanation is the legend of the miraculous ox: during the building’s construction, stones were transported exclusively by road since no rivers were nearby. Oxen pulled the loads up the slopes of Laon, and one of them succumbed to exhaustion, unable to pull the heavy load any longer. According to the legend, a white ox miraculously appeared, helped pull the cart back to the construction site, and then vanished. Since this event, these animals have been placed on top of the building, with 16 of them (8 on each façade tower).”
If visitors book a guided tour with you, what will they see? Can you give us a glimpse?
“It depends on the number of people and their physical conditions. If they are under 18 persons and capable of climbing 210 steps in a narrow spiral staircase, they can explore the heights of the south tower and the gallery or just visit the ground floor. However, they might also see many other monuments and sites in the city. Laon boasts one of the largest preserved areas in France, with the highest density of historic monuments per square meter in the country. There’s plenty to explore!”
A cathedral is ultimately a “domus dei,” a house of God. Does it still hold spiritual value for you?
“I can’t answer that question as I am profoundly agnostic. But for me, it symbolizes the deep beliefs of the people and the society that built it, pushing the limits of craftsmanship and creating true architectural treasures.”
Churches are emptying, faith in God is diminishing. Why do you think cathedrals still exert such fascination on people today?
“Because they are beautiful…”
LUX Travel Tips
- Book your guided tour at the local Office de Tourisme
- While exploring Notre-Dame de Laon and its captivating tale, don’t forget to venture to the magnificent Abbey Church of St. Martin, a timeless treasure established in 1124.
- I stayed in an authentique French hotel, Hotel de La Banniere de France. No fancy modern rooms, but warm and cosy and a great host. Located just a 5 minute walk from the cathedral and 5 minutes to St. Martin’s. You’ll support this website if you book your hotel with this link (we get a small commission), so thank you!
- We had an excellent dinner at ‘Le Passage au Verre’, just 1 minute walk from the cathedral. It’s a charming establishment that offers a delightful dining experience.
