Everyone visiting Lisbon wants to take this photo: the distinctive, yellow tram coming down the hill, with the Romanesque façade of the Lisbon Cathedral in the background. I managed it (after several attempts) too. ‘Many tourists stand in the square in front of the Sé Lisboa, take a picture of the cathedral and walk on again. What they often don’t know is that a mystery lurks beneath this cathedral,’ says Maria, a guide at the Sé de Lisboa. It is often told that the cathedral was built where a mosque stood. But was that really the case? Maria leads us around and reveals the deep secrets of this ancient cathedral.
The iconic yellow tram 28 is taking me up hill in Alfama, the old town of Lisbon. After passing a rustique square, the cathedral rises up right in front of me. Maria is waiting for me inside.
‘I’m extremely lucky’, Maria says. Every day she gets to work in this magnificent setting. By now, she knows the cathedral like the back of her hand. ‘Lisbon Cathedral is not only my workplace, but also a historical place, very old and in the centre of the city,’ she begins enthusiastically.
‘I love telling people from all over the world about what happened here, and what makes this cathedral what it is.’ Show us around, Maria!
Lisbon Cathedral: Built on Historic Ground
‘To understand this story properly,’ Maria begins, ’we have to go back to the year 1147.’
From the 8th century, Lisbon is part of the Islamic empire. The city grows into an important trading centre, where Christians and Muslims live side by side. Historical sources speak of a large mosque in the city centre, but was it on this site?
In 1147, King Afonso Henriques recaptures Lisbon with the help of crusaders. He immediately had a cathedral built right on this spot. ‘Many people believe the Sé stands on a former mosque,’ says Maria. ‘But there is no hard evidence to confirm that. It is possible, but not certain.’
Archaeological excavations in the cloister have found found foundations from the Islamic period, but they are not necessarily Islamic. After all, there were Christian communities in Lisbon during Moorish rule.
‘What is certain,’ says Maria, ’is that during this period there were Mozarabic Christians who built their own churches. The inscribed stones in the cathedral suggest a Visigothic origin rather than a mosque.’
In other words, if there are foundations here from the 8th-12th centuries, they could be Islamic, but they could just as easily be Christian. And that is exactly what makes the Sé de Lisboa so mysterious.
‘The original building was designed by Master Roberto,’ Maria explains. It is based on a Latin cross plan, three naves, a triforium above the side naves, a projecting transept and a three-part choir end. ‘You can see many similarities to the old cathedral of Coimbra, which was built a few years earlier,’ Maria adds.
Fashion Fads and Earthquakes
There have been quite a few modifications over the centuries. The Gothic cloister, for example, was built between 1261 and 1325. It is the only cloister at the back of the building. The apse with ambulatory was built between 1325 and 1357, to accommodate pilgrims. These came from far and wide to venerate the relics of St Vincent. It is the only Gothic ambulatory in Portugal.
When Maria and I reach the ambulatory, we see something curious: before the row of Gothic arches begins, part of a Romanesque round arch can still be seen. The narrower, Gothic arch is just built in. A tangible marker of the transition from Romanesque to Gothic style. ‘Many people overlook this, or cannot tell the difference. My explanation helps to better understand what you see’.
The Gothic ambulatory was built as a result of the needs and fashions of the time. ‘Other modifications were due to the numerous disasters that ravaged Lisbon, such as earthquakes,’ Maria points out.
The 1755 Disaster
The 1755 earthquake was one of the most destructive and deadly earthquakes in history, killing tens of thousands. Some 85% of the city’s buildings were destroyed. The cathedral was badly damaged, but was restored, this time in Baroque style. In the 20th century, people got tired of this lavish style and the cathedral was restored again in the old, Romanesque style.
Traces of the disaster are still quite noticeable; if you know where to look :). Some details that many people don’t notice can be seen in the ambulatory. ‘Look here,’ Maria points out, when we are almost in front of the chapel of Our Lady of the Conception. ‘On this column you can see the traces of displacement of the base and some cracks. It shows something of the enormous forces that have been at work here.
Although the Lisbon Cathedral was expanded and modified over the centuries, elements of Moorish architecture are still visible. This is no coincidence. In the period after the reconquest in 1147, Islamic craftsmen were often employed to build churches and cathedrals, so subtle influences of Moorish building techniques seeped into Christian structures.
A Fatal Fall
The cathedral endured not only earthquakes but also political turmoil. In 1383, Lisbon was dragged into a power struggle following the death of King Fernando I.
But the conflict was more than political: it also had a religious dimension. Bishop Martinho supported Castile but also belonged to the party of the antipope in Avignon, while Portugal remained loyal to the pope in Rome. This meant he was outside the ecclesiastical community, which made his position extra vulnerable.
Furious citizens stormed into the cathedral. Bishop Martinho tried to hide here, but was thrown out of the window and then dragged through the city until his body was devoured by dogs.
Moorish Elements in the Architecture of the Sé de Lisboa
At first glance, the Sé de Lisboa looks like a typical Romanesque cathedral. But look again: in addition to the round arches and statues of saints, you can recognise Moorish influences that testify to its earlier Islamic presence.
- Lisbon Cathedral has a massive, robust appearance with thick walls and narrow windows, which is typical of Romanesque architecture.
- However, this building principle was already present in Islamic forts and mosques, where thick walls helped to keep the interior cool.
- The floor plan of the Sé is based on a basilical design, but some structures seem influenced by a former mosque.
- The cathedral’s cloister features horseshoe arches, a direct feature of Moorish architecture. These arches, recognisable by their rounded and tapered shape, are an essential element of Islamic architecture and can be found in the Mezquita of Cordoba and the Alhambra in Granada, among others.
- Some chapels and older parts of the cathedral incorporate subtle geometric patterns and arabesques into the decoration, a style characteristic of Islamic art.
- Beneath the cathedral are archaeological excavations that contain traces of both the Roman and Moorish period.
- Some carved decorations in the cathedral show star motifs and symmetrical patterns typical of Islamic art.
- These kinds of decorative techniques can also be seen in Silves Cathedral, which was built on a former mosque.
- The Moorish influence on the Sé de Lisboa is not isolated. Other religious buildings in Portugal and Spain show similar architectural blending:
- Cathedral of Silves – This cathedral was built on a mosque, reusing Islamic building techniques.
- The Giralda in Seville – Originally a minaret, later transformed into a church tower, this tower shows how Christian builders integrated Moorish structures into their architecture.
- Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora (Lisbon) – This monastery has detailed azulejos (tiles) reflecting Moorish patterns and techniques.
Insider Tips from the Lisbon Cathedral Guide
As a guide, Maria has two favourite spots in the cathedral. The first is the chapel of San Ildefonso, particularly because of the nativity scene there. ‘The manger represents divinity and ordinary life in exactly the same place, it’s beautiful!’ she says enthusiastically.
The second spot is the rose window on the west side, above the entrance. We walk there together, where you stand facing the stained glass on the gallery. ‘Here you see Jesus in the middle and his apostles at the Last Supper. It’s a fantastic image, especially at sunset, when it looks even brighter’.
So I have to come back again, around sunset. Moments later, we are on the outside of the window. From a sort of balcony you have a great view of the city and the Tagus River. ‘Yet another reason to return here at sunset,’ I think.
The Sé of the Future
When talking about the future, Maria hopes the cathedral will long remain a place where people can pray and come to experience the beauty of the place itself. She is happy that the organisation she works for can play a role in its upkeep. ‘The income we generate through ticket sales helps preserve and conserve the heritage for future generations,’ she says.
Although the cathedral attracts many visitors, not many people take a guided tour. A shame, because you understand so much more about the building when you know a little more about the background.
About the Lisbon Cathedral 'Se de Lisboa'
- Building period: 1147- first decades of 13th century
- Lenght: 90 m
- Width: 40 m
- Height (vault): 12 m
The Sé de Lisboa is an important example of medieval Portuguese architecture, built shortly after the Christian reconquest of Lisbon in 1147. The original architectural style is Romanesque, inspired by Norman models, visible in the solid walls and small windows.
Although the Romanesque character predominates, various Gothic elements have been added over the centuries. For example, the chapels in the cloister and the chapel of Bartolomeu Joanes (built in the 14th century) are Gothic in style, with their pointed arches and detailed decorations.
The cathedral has undergone several renovations over the centuries, including after the devastating 1755 earthquake. Archaeological excavations around the cathedral have uncovered remains of earlier civilizations, such as Roman and Islamic strata. This makes the cathedral not only a religious symbol, but also a place where Lisbon’s ancient history comes together.
LUX Travel Tips
- Get your ticket for the cathedral in advance.
- More information about the cathedral can be found at the website of Sé de Lisboa
- Take the iconic tram 28 to Alfama (officially called Eléctrico 28, 28E). You can buy a loose ticket from the conductor for €3.10 (2024, source: Carris).
- I stayed in My Story Hotel Figueira: a very central location (rated 9,8!) to visit the city, just 5 min. away by tram or 10 min. walk to the cathedral. Excellent diner as well.
- If you look for an exclusive experience, try the Solar do Castelo: This beautiful hotel is located within the walls of Sao Jorge Castle, atop the hill overlooking the city of Lisbon. Indulge yourself!
- We had absolutely delicious dinner at ‘ Sala De João Sá‘, just 1 minute walk from the cathedral. Not only the food was perfect, but the staff and atmosphere was just perfect.
- Tip: after your visit, treat yourself to a delicious coffee and a typical Lisbon Pastel de Nata at Dear Breakfast, on a little square a stone’s throw from the cathedral.
- After walking through the city, this catamaran boat trip (with wine!) was a very welcome alternative. The best place to enjoy a beautiful sunset!
