As the early morning light bathed the intricate facade of Rouen Cathedral in a soft glow, Claude Monet set up his easel, captivated by the play of shadows and the majestic beauty before him. His series of paintings of this Gothic masterpiece not only revolutionized the art world but also immortalized the cathedral in the collective memory of art enthusiasts worldwide. In this article, Quentin Bicheux, a knowledgeable guide at the cathedral, shares fascinating insights into its rich past. Join us as we explore the hidden details and lesser-known stories of this iconic Gothic landmark that inspired Monet and many others.
An Inspiring Cathedral
Quentin Bicheux, you are connected as a guide at the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Rouen. What inspires you to share the stories of the cathedral with visitors?
‘The Rouen Cathedral,’ Quentin starts off, ’is the city’s most iconic monument and a source of inspiration for many artists like Gustave Flaubert and Claude Monet. The impressionist painter’s Cathedral series has indeed made the cathedral famous worldwide.
It’s a pride to have such a monument that inspires, in our city with a rich history spanning nearly a millennium. It’s enjoyable to help visitors discover the history and hidden details of this building’.
Origins of the Cathedral
Can you tell us about the origins of the cathedral? We know there was a Romanesque church before. Are there any traces of it visible?
‘The first place of worship on this site dates back to the late 4th century’, Quentin explains. The original church was gradually expanded and embellished during the Carolingian era; from this period, fragments of mosaics, stained glass, and some carved stones have been preserved.
It wasn’t until the Viking invasions and the establishment of the Duchy of Normandy that a second building appeared on this site. The construction of the Romanesque cathedral began around 1020. In 1063, it was consecrated in the presence of William the Conqueror. Today, only the crypt remains from the Romanesque building. The rest was demolished to build the Gothic choir. The crypt can only be visited during a guided tour.
The most Human of Cathedrals
As we delve deeper into the unique features of the cathedral, Quentin elaborates on the remarkable façade. ‘All cathedrals are unique, but Rouen’s stands out with its façade, a true lacework of stone,’ he explains. This façade, built over four centuries, showcases the evolution of architectural styles and the contributions of generations of craftsmen.
The façade evolved over time, starting from the end of the 12th century. In the 14th century, the façade was adorned with statues and radiant decorations, while the Butter Tower (the right tower) was completed in the 16th century. The main portal and the magnificent rose window also date from the 16th century.
Thus, the cathedral’s façade spans almost four centuries of architectural history (not to mention the 19th-century restorations). Various generations of architects, sculptors, and masons have left their mark and a certain asymmetry. That’s why it is said that Rouen Cathedral is “the most human of cathedrals.”
Another unique feature is the fact that it has the widest façade in France, measuring 61.60 meters wide. ‘For comparison’, Quentin explains, ’the façade of Notre-Dame in Paris is 43.50 meters wide’.
Architectual influences
Churches often inspire one another. Which church inspired the construction of Notre-Dame of Rouen?
Archbishop Hugues d’Amiens attended the consecration of the abbey church of Saint-Denis in 1144 at the invitation of Abbot Suger. He witnessed the first Gothic architectural principles, which place great importance on light within the building. Upon his return, around 1145, he started the construction of a tower known today as the Saint-Romain tower, marking the beginning of the current Gothic cathedral.
The Birthplace of Gothic Architecture is in Paris
Not the Notre-Dame of Paris is the Birthplace of Gothic Architecture, but the cathedral of Saint-Denis, build by abbot Suger.
Vikings, Kings and Painters: Rouen had them all
The cathedral has a rich history. Are there any notable events that have taken place here?
Key events at the Rouen Cathedral include the baptism of Viking chieftain Rollo, founder of Normandy, in 911, and that of Olaf II (Saint Olaf), king of Norway, in 1014. Various historical figures have visited the Cathedral of Rouen such as Philip II Augustus, Anne of Brittany, Francis I, Louis XIV, Louis XVI, Empress Eugénie, and Mary of Teck.
However, Claude Monet remains the most famous. Although he spent several months in Rouen between 1892 and 1893 to paint his famous cathedral series, he only visited the cathedral once a few days before his departure.
Hidden Treasures
Which remarkable architectural elements of the basilica do visitors often overlook?
‘Generally, visitors quickly pass by the Chapelle de Vierge (Mary Chapel). In my opinion’, Quentin says, ’that’s the most beautiful and holiest part of the cathedral as it is dedicated to Our Lady, who gives her name to the building.
The Chapelle de Vierge is the axial chapel of the cathedral, located on the east side in the ambulatory. It was built from 1302 in the Rayonnant Gothic style. Here, the walls have entirely given way to stunning stained glass windows.
It is also one of the few parts of the church that was spared during the French Revolution and the bombings of 1944. Fortunately, the 14th-century stained glass windows, spectacular burial monuments (such as the Tomb of the Cardinals d’Amboise), and a beautiful altarpiece featuring a painting by Philippe de Champaigne have also been preserved.
What is your favorite spot in the church that every visitor should discover?
‘Personally’, Quentin says, ‘my favorite place is the Cour des Libraires’ (see photo beneath). Located on the north side of the cathedral, it provides access to the transept. It’s a secluded courtyard (and therefore always peaceful) with a distinctly medieval appearance. ‘You get a beautiful view of the richly decorated Portail des Libraires, the rose window, and the cathedral’s spire. Take the time to observe the medieval figures on the façade: you’ll see a mermaid, a man with a dog’s head, a musical sow, or Hercules and the Nemean lion’.
Secrets of the Rouen Cathedral
Churches like this are often full of secrets and interesting facts little known to the general public. What is the secret of Notre-Dame?
‘Few know, but the Rouen Cathedral is the tallest in France with its spire reaching 151 meters high. It was even the tallest monument in the world between 1876 and 1880’.
Another secret of the cathedral concerns the tomb of Richard the Lionheart, Duke of Normandy and King of England. ‘His statue is preserved in the cathedral’s ambulatory, yet he is not buried beneath it. At the time of Richard’s death in 1199, rulers conducted multiple burials: his body is buried at Fontevraud, his entrails at Châlus, and his embalmed heart was placed in the Rouen Cathedral at his request’, Quentin concludes.
For those visiting the cathedral for the first time, what insider tip would you give them?
Quentin thinks, then replies: ‘I recommend taking the time to absorb the atmosphere and light within the cathedral, especially in the lantern tower (in the middle of the church), a Norman architectural feature where a beautiful clarity prevails’.
Old Lady of Rouen, Temple of Faith and Gothic masterpiece
What does the cathedral personally mean to you? And what role does it play for the inhabitants of Rouen today?
‘By visiting it daily and having access to places normally closed to visitors, the cathedral becomes a familiar and almost intimate place to some extent’, Quentin says.
‘For the inhabitants of Rouen, the cathedral may hold a stronger or weaker meaning depending on what motivates a visitor to enter. For some, it is a temple of faith, for others, a Gothic masterpiece; certainly, the silhouette of the spire is a landmark in the landscape of Rouen and symbolizes the city center’.
It is also a venerable old lady who has survived religious wars, the French Revolution, and the terrible bombings of World War II. ‘The fact that it still stands today commands a certain respect’.
Will the cathedral be this meaningful in the future?
‘This is a thousand-year-old church that has seen the city evolve and change shape around it. I believe’, Quentin says, ‘it will continue to witness the evolution of our society, while remaining a place of prayer for believers and a place of meditation and inspiration for visitors. It is a kind of rock that untroubledly withstands the waves of centuries’.
This article was created with the assistance of Quentin Bicheux and Rouen Tourisme.
About the Rouen Cathedral
- Building period: 1030-1880
- Length (exterior): 144 m
- Width (facade): 61,6 m
- Width (transept): 24 m
- Height (vault): 28 m
- Height (central spire): 151 m
Christianity came to Rouen around 260 AD (!), thanks to Saint Mellonius, who became the city’s first bishop. The first church is thought to have been built either under or very close to where the current cathedral stands.
The Butter Tower, known as Tour Beurre, earned its name because its construction was financed by the indulgences sold to those who opted not to fast during Lent, allowing them to consume dairy products like milk and butter. This tower houses fifty-six bells.
The Butter Tower, known as Tour Beurre, earned its name because its construction was financed by the indulgences sold to those who opted not to fast during Lent, allowing them to consume dairy products like milk and butter. This tower houses fifty-six bells.
Standing at 151 meters (495 feet), the central lantern tower, combined with its spire, is the tallest in France. Construction began in the thirteenth century, with the spire added in the sixteenth century. The current cast iron spire, erected in 1876, replaced the original wooden spire covered in gilded lead that had been installed in 1544.
LUX Travel Tips
- Discover a vibrant and welcoming student city teeming with attractions, exceptional food, and an amazing (medieval) atmosphere. Rouen is often overlooked, but it’s truly worth a visit! Check Rouen Tourisme for more information!
- Book your guided tour with an official guide, who shows you Rouen’s must-sees!
- Sleep directly across from the cathedral in a late-medieval half-timbered building. Sounds great, right? You can experience this at the centrally located Mercure hotel.
- Do you have a generous budget and crave unparalleled luxury? Opt for a star treatment and enjoy world-class service at Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde. This boutique hotel is housed in a magnificent historic building, right in the heart of Rouen, next to the Gros-Horloge.
- There are free shows, lighting up the Cathedral from early June to late September every year.
June, July: from 23:00/11pm
August: from 22:30/10.30pm
September: from 22:00/10pm
