If you’ve recently watched the film All the Light We Cannot See, you’ve undoubtedly been struck by the dramatic history of Saint-Malo. But behind the imposing stones of Saint-Vincent Cathedral, where part of the story unfolds, lies an even deeper history. Here, among ancient stories, works Jeanne Bernard—a young guide who brings this history to life with her passion and knowledge.
Saint-Malo Cathedral dedicated to Saint-Vincent...explain!
“I work seasonally at Saint-Vincent Cathedral,” Jeanne Bernard explains. “I particularly enjoy telling stories, whether they are real or fictional.” This enthusiasm is at the heart of her work, as she had to build an entirely new tour last summer. This means she delves deep into the archives, searching for hidden gems that bring the cathedral’s history to life. “This task, which requires historical research, was especially interesting to me because of the rich history of this place,” she adds.
Saint-Vincent Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Vincent of Saragossa, a saint who, somewhat ironically, is the patron saint of winemakers—a trade with little connection to Brittany. “The cathedral was built in the 12th century on the site of an earlier monastery dedicated to him,” Jeanne explains. “It seems the name was kept, likely due to a trend at the time.”
A Bishop with a Mission
The origin of the cathedral is steeped in ambition and rivalry. In the 12th century, only a small monastery stood on the rock of Canalchius, where Saint-Malo now lies. Bishop Jean de la Grille, who faced much resistance from the powerful diocese of Tours, sought a way to strengthen his seat.
He traveled to Rome to convince the pope to move his episcopal seat to the rock of Saint-Malo, which he claimed was the first landing place of Saint-Malo. “After much negotiation and testimony,” Jeanne recounts, “Jean was eventually installed as bishop of Saint-Malo, and he returned to destroy the monastery church and build a new cathedral in its place.”
“It wasn’t just a relocation,” she emphasizes. “It was a strategic move that triggered the entire city of Aleth to relocate to the rock of Saint-Malo.” This decision proved crucial, as the port of Aleth silted up while Saint-Malo’s port grew and thrived. Jean’s decision not only saved his diocese but also laid the foundation for the city as we know it today.
A Cathedral Reflecting Many Architectural Styles
- Romanesque (12th century), with the nave and vaults subtly disguised as Angevin vaults.
- Rayonnant Gothic (13th century), visible in the choir and the ambulatory.
- Flamboyant Gothic (15th century), with the southern aisle, particularly noted for the elegant shapes of its openings.
- Classical (16th-17th centuries), in the northern aisle and the transept.
- Neoclassicism (18th century), with the parish chapel (now Saint Benedict’s Chapel).
- Neoclassicism (post-1945), also in the reconstruction of the southern transept after World War II.
- Neo-Gothic (1970), in the reconstruction of the rose window that was destroyed in the 17th century
A Cathedral Full of Influences
Saint-Vincent Cathedral is a unique architectural blend, shaped by centuries of change. “The nave, built in the 12th century, is Romanesque, inspired by the cathedral in Angers,” Jeanne explains. “But in the 13th and 15th centuries, Gothic elements were added, such as the choir and the southern aisle. In the 16th and 17th centuries, classical elements were added.”
“The second major influence is clearly visible in the Gothic part of the cathedral, particularly in the choir.” This Gothic choir is square in shape, which is unusual for the region and more typical of churches across the Channel in England.
The choir of Saint-Vincent was inspired by Salisbury Cathedral, recognizable by its three levels: the ambulatory windows, the triforium, and the upper windows. Due to the limited space in Saint-Malo, however, the choir had to be much smaller and less square than Salisbury’s.
It is especially noteworthy that the eastern facade does not run parallel to the western facade or even the edge of the choir, forcing the design to adapt to the surrounding streets.
What makes the cathedral truly special, however, is how it adapts to the terrain. “Saint-Malo is a compact city, built on a small rock,” Jeanne explains. “The cathedral had to adapt to the topography, resulting in three different levels: the nave, the choir, and the ambulatory.” This unique architectural style gives the cathedral a presence that is both imposing and intimate.
Destruction and Reconstruction
The cathedral has weathered many storms, both literal and figurative. During World War II, Saint-Malo was heavily bombed by the Allies, and the cathedral did not escape destruction. “The bell tower was blown up by the Germans in an attempt to slow down the Allies,” Jeanne recalls. “And the bombings destroyed much of the city, including parts of the cathedral.”
The restoration of the cathedral took nearly three decades. “The northern transept was the first to be used, while the rest of the city was cleared,” she says. “In 1972, the Gothic choir was finally restored (but inactive until 2016!), along with the ambulatory and the newly built southern transept, which was named the ‘Wing of Peace.’” This period of reconstruction gave the cathedral its current form and restored the grandeur that had been destroyed by the war.
Insider's Tips from the Guide
But it’s not just the grand stories that excite Jeanne. “Few people notice the presence of the parish chapel,” she says with a smile. It’s an independent church, built within the cathedral. It has its own sacristy, its own tabernacle and even its own (small) organ. This chapel, built in the 18th century, seems almost hidden within the cathedral but offers an intimate space for prayer and reflection.
Another gem that is often overlooked is the top of the Romanesque vaults in the nave. “Visitors expect Gothic stonework, but what they find is a disorderly pile of stones,” she says, smiling. “It always surprises them and serves as a reminder of how much older the foundations of this cathedral are than they might first think.”
STORY OF THE ROSE WINDOW
The rose window of Saint-Vincent Cathedral was rebuilt in 1970, with stained glass crafted by Jean Le Moal. This restoration brought back the cathedral’s lost 17th-century splendor, following a symbolic attack on the city led by William of Orange.
In an attempt to destroy Saint-Malo, he assembled a massive Anglo-Dutch fleet, preceded by an “infernal machine”—a ship with black sails and a black hull, which crashed into the city walls at night, laden with explosives. The target was the Bidoine Tower, the city’s powder magazine.
By chance, a storm caused the machine to run aground on the Roche aux Anglais before it could reach the walls. Facing the sea, it exploded toward its own ships, sparing the city.
Many stories surround this attack, including one that claims the “infernal machine” took only one victim in the entire city of Saint-Malo: a cat, whose fur caught fire, causing it to “dance” in an attempt to escape the flames. Near the city walls, opposite the Roche aux Anglais, there is now a street named Rue du Chat qui Danse (Street of the Dancing Cat) in its honor.
While the exact number of casualties caused by the “infernal machine” remains unknown, we do know that the attack was deadly for the city of Saint-Malo. The fires were so extensive that civilians had to be evacuated to the beach. The cathedral was not spared, and a mortar shot (a short cannon firing over the walls) pierced the high window on the south side of the Gothic choir before passing through the rose window and ending in the street. This event marked the end of the cathedral’s rose window, which was only rebuilt in 1970.
A Living Monument in a New Light
For Jeanne, the cathedral is more than just a historical landmark; it’s a living monument, deeply rooted in the community. “The cathedral is my parish,” she says proudly. “I come here every Sunday for Mass and sing in the Saint-Vincent choir.” For the people of Saint-Malo, the cathedral is not only a place of worship but also a refuge—a place to pray, meditate, or simply find a moment of peace.
Light always finds a way to return.
With the recent attention on Saint-Malo, sparked by the film All the Light We Cannot See, which highlights the city’s dark days during the war, there is something magical about the fact that light now floods the cathedral once again. “The restored rose window, rebuilt in 1970, now lets the light beautifully stream in,” says Jeanne. “It reminds us that, despite all the destruction, light always finds a way to return.”
Despite the heavy maintenance costs—of which Jeanne is unsure of the exact figures—the cathedral remains an active parish, both culturally and religiously. “The cathedral opens its doors every day to welcome both locals and visitors,” she says, confident that this will continue in the future as well.
Saint-Vincent Cathedral is not just a tourist attraction; it’s a place full of stories, a place where the history of Saint-Malo still resonates in every stone, every stained-glass window, and every vaulted hallway. And just like in the film, where the city was shrouded in darkness, the light now shines brightly again, through the rose window that restores the cathedral’s grandeur.
“The cathedral is the heart of Saint-Malo,” Jeanne concludes. “And I hope it will remain so for many centuries to come.”
Do you want to know more before your visit? Check out the Travel Tips below, or feel free to ask your questions, I’m happy to help!
About the cathedral SAINT-VINCENT DE SAINT-MALO
- Building period: 1146-1972
- Length: 65 m
- Width: 32 m
- Height (vault): 24 m
Saint-Vincent Cathedral, located in the heart of Saint-Malo, is a remarkable blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Classical architecture, reflecting its centuries-long history. The cathedral stands at a height of 72 meters, with its iconic spire rebuilt in 1970 after being destroyed during World War II. The nave, originally built in the 12th century, stretches over 32 meters in length, while the Gothic choir, inspired by Salisbury Cathedral, features a unique square design adapted to the narrow streets of Saint-Malo.
The cathedral’s rose window, a highlight of its Neo-Gothic features, was reconstructed in 1970, allowing light to flood the interior once again. Inside, visitors can explore the Romanesque vaults, the Rayonnant Gothic ambulatory, and the (rebuilded) Saint Benedict’s Chapel, all contributing to the cathedral’s rich architectural tapestry.
Saint-Vincent Cathedral has withstood the test of time, from its early days as a monastery church to its near destruction during the bombings of 1944. Today, it remains a vibrant part of the community, hosting regular services and welcoming visitors from around the world.
LUX Travel Tips
- Discover the city with a self-guided audio tour
- Opposite the Halle au Blé in Saint-Malo, this little crêperie called Grain Noir is not to be missed. Wait, crêpes? Yes, or ‘galettes’, the filled crêpes. You have to eat them once, and they better be good then. Here, it’s the crème de la crème… euh, crêpes.
- If you prefer style and class, Grand Hôtel des Thermes is your place to stay. Michelin: “At first glance, the Grand Hôtel des Thermes is the archetypal French seaside luxury hotel — an impressive Belle Époque edifice fronting a long stretch of beach. But unlike the grand hotels of the Côte d’Azur, this one’s got no oceanfront boulevard, no built-up beach club, nothing but sand and sea”. If you can afford it (starting around 280,- euro): go for it!
- If you really want to experience life within the city walls of Saint Malo, you should definitely book this stay: Le Plongeoir is an apartment that truly has everything, located in the heart of the city with a sea view. For a minimum of three nights, you won’t even pay 400 euros. The reviews on Booking.com don’t lie (9.2), so what are you waiting for?
- Are your kids begging for ice cream, or do you just want some yourself but don’t feel like standing in a long line? Here’s a local tip from Jeanne: I would also suggest Timothy. The most famous ice cream place in Saint-Malo is Sanchez, but in summer their prices are outrageous, and the lines are long. Right next to it is the English tea room Timothy, which offers ice cream just as good, cheaper, and without the lines.
