When you think of France’s grand cathedrals, names like Notre-Dame de Paris, Chartres, or Reims probably come to mind. But have you ever heard of Sens Cathedral? This venerable lady, often overlooked, truly deserves a place among the pinnacles of French Gothic architecture. According to Baptiste Gateau, guide and tireless advocate of this cathedral, Sens is actually the first true Gothic cathedral—yes, even before Saint-Denis!
Baptiste, who has represented his hometown of Sens with passion since 2019, describes his work with the cathedral as a “great privilege.” Almost daily, he watches visitors take their first wide-eyed look at this architectural marvel.
A Cathedral of the First Hour
According to legend, Saint Savinien established Sens’s first church in the 1st century. “Saint Savinien is considered the first archbishop of Sens,” explains Baptiste, guide at the cathedral. Over the centuries, multiple churches have risen on this site, including a triple cathedral dedicated to Saint Stephen, John the Baptist, and Mary.
“This ‘maior ecclesia’ was destroyed by fire in the 10th century,” Baptiste adds, after which a new Romanesque cathedral was consecrated in 982 by Archbishop Seguin. Sadly, Baptiste notes, “there are no visible traces left of this Romanesque structure; only medieval chronicles recall its early history.”
Sens Cathedral: The First Gothic Cathedral? Let's Fact-Check
Baptiste is certain: Sens is the first Gothic cathedral in the world. And what about the often-quoted cathedral of Saint-Denis? In the 12th century, it was merely a (rebuilt) basilica and abbey. It only received the title of “cathedral” after the French Revolution.
The construction of Saint-Denis and Sens Cathedral started only a few years apart. In Saint-Denis, Abbot Suger began with the western facade in 1135, moving to the Gothic choir in 1140, which was completed four years later. “Recent studies date the start of construction of Sens Cathedral to between 1130 and 1135,” says Baptiste.
This makes Sens a bit older than Saint-Denis. Some even claim that Abbot Suger visited Sens’s construction site, drawing inspiration from the six-part ribbed vaults and large stained glass windows, but no evidence has been found to support this.
A Fire, a Master Builder, and a Journey to Canterbury
While Saint-Denis spurred the construction of Gothic churches in northern France, Sens’s influence reached as far as England. After a devastating fire in 1174, master builder William of Sens was sent to Canterbury to design a new Gothic choir for the cathedral. He worked there for three years until an unfortunate fall ended his life.
Yet, his influence spread far beyond England. Paris? Chartres? Laon? All were influenced by Sens’s style. No wonder locals in Sens jokingly call Notre-Dame “the daughter” of their cathedral.
An Asymmetrical Facade—Where Have We Seen That Before?
If you’re a fan of symmetry, the facade of Sens might be a challenge. But that’s precisely what makes it so fascinating. Baptiste also admits, “We know little about the original appearance from the 1200s. Alain Villes suggested that the north tower had a high stone spire, but it collapsed in 1268, altering the facade’s composition.”
What remains is a sort of charming, haphazard mix of styles. Think of a painting modified by various artists over centuries, with the original sketch faintly visible beneath Gothic flourishes and Romanesque arches.
The northern tower has remained “bare” for years—its wooden spire was removed in 1845, and it has been waiting ever since for a decision about its fate. Interestingly, a similar restoration is currently underway at Saint-Denis to rebuild its lost north tower.
A Cathedral of Kings and Crowns
Sens may not be Paris, but this cathedral has hosted its fair share of royalty. King Louis IX (better known as Saint Louis), married Marguerite of Provence here in 1234. Later on, the Dauphin (heir to the throne), son of Louis XV, rests with his wife in Sens Cathedral. And let’s not forget that the cathedral also holds a fragment of the Crown of Thorns, a relic that the king personally brought to Sens in 1239.
But why was Sens so important to host this prestigious cathedral? Head to the Middle Ages and Sens had become an extremely powerful archdiocese. Its archbishop held the title “Primate of the Gauls and Germania” (second only to the Pope), whose influence extended over the dioceses of Chartres, Auxerre, Meaux, Paris, Orléans, Nevers and Troyes. In 1130, Henri Sanglier, the archbishop of the time, decided to build a cathedral worthy of the power of his archdiocese. So in 1164 the cathedral was consegrated by no one else then Pope Alexander III himself.
A Journey Through the Architectural History of France
According to guide Baptiste, it’s the architectural diversity that fascinates him most. Every century has left its mark here. You’ll find Romanesque chapels alongside Gothic towers, stained glass windows from the 13th century and from the 19th century, and Renaissance elements that unexpectedly appear in corners where you’d least expect them. “These additions and changes give the cathedral a unique beauty and allow visitors to journey through the entire architectural history of France,” says Baptiste.
Climb to the Top
For the adventurous, Sens Cathedral offers a real challenge: 330 steps to the top of the tower, where you’re rewarded with a spectacular view of the city and surrounding landscape, accompanied by ancient gargoyles watching over every twist and turn of the spiral staircase. Baptiste has made this climb countless times, but “the narrow stairs, balustrades, gargoyles, and breathtaking view of Sens and the countryside— they never lose their charm.”
Heart of the City of Sens
For the people of Sens, the gothic cathedral is more than just an old church. “To me, it’s the heart of Sens, and I think many residents feel the same,” says Baptiste. Whether you’re sipping coffee on the cathedral square or doing your shopping at the adjacent covered market, the tower always keeps a watchful eye.
The cathedral will always be here!
Always… but for how long? “The cathedral will always be here!” Baptiste insists. “Its religious role may diminish as church attendance declines, but its role as a tourist, heritage, festive, and social center is only growing, which I think is a good thing. It enhances heritage awareness and generates revenue for its maintenance.”
The Sens Cathedral may not be on everyone’s bucket list, but for those who dare to look beyond the usual tourist landmarks, it offers a profound insight into the roots of Gothic architecture. This is a building with layers—not only architectural but also historical and emotional. And while it may stand in the shadow of its more famous sisters, it’s precisely that shadow that makes it so intriguing.
So, before you take yet another selfie in the crowd at Notre-Dame de Paris, ask yourself: have you seen Sens?
Sources:
- Baptiste Gateau
- https://en.tourisme-sens.com/
- Wilson (1990) The Gothic Cathedral, Thames and Hudson.
About the Cathedral Saint-etienne de sens
- Building period: 1135-1164
- Lenght: 113 m
- Width: 53 m
- Height (vault): 24 m
- Height (tower): 68 m
The Cathedral of Sens, officially known as the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Sens, is one of the earliest and most influential Gothic cathedrals in France.
The construction of the Cathedral of Sens began in 1135 under the leadership of Archbishop Hugues de Toucy. It was one of the first Gothic churches and served as a model for later Gothic structures, including the famous Notre-Dame of Paris. The construction of the main building was completed around 1164, while the western façade was added in the 12th century.
The cathedral spans an impressive 113 meters in length and 53 meters in width. The vaults are 24 meters high, just a meter higher then the cathedral of Noyon, but 4 meters lower then the Saint-Denis vaults (28 meters).
An interesting fact is that the ratio between the total length (113 meters) and the height of the towers (68 meters) is approximately 5:3, which closely approaches the golden ratio (1.618). These proportions are often considered visually appealing and are found in many Gothic structures.
The dimensions make Sens Cathedral an impressive example of early Gothic architecture, with particularly harmonious and balanced proportions in both height and length.
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LUX Travel Tips
- Check the beautiful website of the Sens Tourism Office and explore the cathedral with an audio guided tour.
- Just within 2 minutes walking distance of the cathedral, Epona Hotel offers modern style spacious rooms. Book here and support LUX (it doesn’t affect your price)!
- Do you prefer an apartment? Le Laurencin offers 15 apartments in the historic city center, within walking distance of the cathedral, fully equipped and fairly priced. Book here and support LUX (it doesn’t affect your price)!
