Just as Notre-Dame is to France, the Sint-Jan in Den Bosch is to the Netherlands. It’s a pinnacle of Brabantian Gothic architecture and the largest cathedral in the country. An absolute must-visit. But here’s the extraordinary twist: due to a roof restoration project, it is possible to stroll along the rooftop and around the towering Crossing Tower, a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. UPDATE: At the moment, it’s not possible anymore to join The Adventurous Climb. You might have to wait another 100 years… 😉 Instead, try the Dom Church!
The Adventurous Climb: A Unique Experience
They call it the Adventurous Climb. This experience lives up to its name, offering a sense of wonder as you stride along the rooftop of a 50-meter-high cathedral.
Climbing a cathedral’s roof is far from an everyday experience. This unique opportunity arises due to the ongoing restoration of the roof, involving the replacement of all the slates. It’s a substantial project, incurring significant costs.
However, the major advantage is that this provides visitors with a chance to closely admire not only the roof but also the sculptures on the cathedral’s exterior. An opportunity that won’t come around again for the next 100 years!
I had already secured our tickets online (€15 for adults and €7.50 for my 11-year-old son). On the southern flank of the church, an extensive scaffolded stairway leads the way. Ascending from the initial platform, you’ll encounter a brief flight of stairs that takes you along the rooftop’s crest and encircling the grand Crossing Tower.
Enthusiastic Cathedral Guides
An enthusiastic guide awaits you at the first platform, ready to unveil the cathedral’s rich history. As you ascend, he shares tales of the original design, envisioning a much longer church than the current structure, which might seem a bit stout by comparison.
You’ll also discover the remarkable Romanesque tower, curiously standing askew, a feature still evident from the rooftop. Financial constraints and the tumultuous Iconoclastic Fury during the Reformation were key factors preventing the church from reaching its full intended glory. Neglect ensued after the Calvinists, who represented just 10% of Den Bosch’s inhabitants, took charge.
In a surprising historical turn, it was Napoleon Bonaparte who, in 1810, ordered the return of the church to the Catholics. “Vous aurez la grande église et un évêque aussi” (You shall have the grand church, and also a bishop).
A Close Encounter with History
The route spirals along the cathedral’s stone walls, offering a close-up view of the Sint-Jan’s intricate detailing. The sculptures, including the whimsical gargoyles, the ornate windows, and the custom-cut slate shingles adorning the roof, are now almost within arm’s reach.
The literal summit of this ascent is the Crossing Tower, situated at the heart of the cathedral. At this point, you’re walking 50 meters above the ground. In earlier times, the tower reached greater heights, soaring to approximately 85 meters.
However, it appears that fate did not favor the church; on the fateful date of July 25, 1584, the 85-meter-high wooden Crossing Tower of the Sint-Jan Cathedral was consumed by fire following a lightning strike. The tower tragically collapsed straight through the southern transept.
The restoration efforts were not launched until the early 17th century. Regrettably, the tower constructed between 1522 and 1529 never made a comeback due to financial constraints. Instead, it was replaced by a low dome.
At the peak, take a moment to savor the stunning panoramic view of ‘s-Hertogenbosch and its surroundings (see photo above, thanks Mari Durieux!). The outskirts of the city are not entirely urbanized, enabling you to easily conjure the image of watchful eyes scanning the horizon for approaching enemy armies from this very vantage point.
Calling Angel
Suddenly, your attention is drawn to a striking statue. At first glance, it appears to be an angel, but not your typical one. This angel sports denim jeans, carries a briefcase, and chats on a mobile phone. The guide explains, “None of the statues you see here are original. This particular angel has been given a modern twist. You can even call this angel! In the past, a nun would answer the phone, but due to its overwhelming popularity, she has, regrettably, been replaced by an answering machine.”
True to his words, when I dialed 0900-sintjan, I found myself in conversation with the Angel of Sint-Jan. “This lofty vantage point on the flying buttress offers the best reception for both Heaven and Earth.” Please note: this call costs €0.80 per minute, with proceeds contributing to the restoration fund.
- UPDATE: At the moment, it’s not possible anymore to join The Adventurous Climb. You might have to wait another 100 years… 😉 Instead, try the Dom Church!
About the Sint-Jan Cathedral
- Building period: 1370-1530
- Lenght: 115 m
- Width: 62 m
- High (vault): 28 m
The Sint-Janskathedraal (officially: the Cathedral Basilica of Saint John the Evangelist) holds the title of the largest cathedral in the Netherlands. Many revere it as the apex of Brabantine Gothic architecture.
Built on the site of a Romanesque church, likely dating back to 1220, the transformation of this structure into a Gothic masterpiece began around 1370, possibly after its elevation to a collegiate church.
In just a century, the choir (1415), transept (1470), and nave were sequentially completed. The Sint-Jan’s magnum opus, the Crossing Tower, rose to its pinnacle in 1530.
The cathedral spans an impressive 115 meters in length and 62 meters in width. The five-aisled nave creates an expansive interior, yet the soaring vaults at nearly 28 meters high give the cathedral an intimate character.
A remarkable feature unique to the Netherlands is the double row of flying buttresses that support the choir and nave. These flying buttresses are adorned with a plethora of 90 sculptures, counting up to about 600 inside and outside the church.
LUX Travel Tips
- Book your audio tour
- Hotel ‘t Keerhuys is my absolute favorite: this monumental building is a 10-minute walk from the cathedral. The atmosphere is modern, yet authentic. The beds are fantastic, and oh yes: the bistro is definitely too!
- Most rooms at The Duke Boutique Hotel have a view of the cathedral. That’s already a big plus. The interior has been carefully chosen. You get free bikes to explore the city (although you’re so centrally located that everything is within walking distance :))
