The Grote Kerk of Breda stands as the epitome of Brabantine Gothic architecture in the Netherlands. It has undergone extensive restoration work over recent years and will continue to do so until at least 2027. It’s high time to explore the remarkable outcome, but amidst the awe-inspiring grandeur of this church lie some puzzling mysteries.
As you approach Breda from the road or railway, one cannot help but notice a radiant figure in the sunlight: the White Lady, as the 97-meter-tall church tower is fondly called. It’s white, a result of the white limestone transported from the Ardennes by its builders.
A Gothic Church for Breda
In 1410, the construction of the Grote Kerk of Breda began, a common starting point for churches of that era. First came the choir, followed by the three-aisle nave, transept, and the north and south chapels. After the tower’s completion in 1509, work began on the chapels flanking the tower, which were finished in 1547.
The church nestles tightly among the surrounding houses. On the north side, the houses almost appear to merge with the church. A stroll down the narrow Torenstraat suddenly brings you face to face with the towering church. The double doors remain unused; the entrance is on the south side, facing Kerkplein (Church Square).
Upon entering, what immediately strikes you is the airy, uncluttered interior. The church has been cleared of chairs and benches, harking back to its medieval appearance when only the well-known choir benches for the clergy were present. Sunlight bathes the whitewashed walls, with the Prinsenkapel (Princes’ Chapel) offering a colorful contrast.
Royal Connections: The House of Nassau
Inside the Prinsenkapel, a marvel unfolds. The tomb monument of Count Engelbrecht II of Nassau and his wife stands as a testament to the lavish efforts invested in this space.
No expense was spared for the chapel. The tomb is crafted from alabaster and marble. The chapel’s ceiling is gilded with gold leaf (painted by a pupil of none other than Raphael). Don’t forget to look up at the early Renaissance vault paintings, stained glass windows, and tapestries. Together, they create a magnificent, colorful ensemble.
Among the numerous notable features in the church, the grand Flentrop organ is a standout, not just for its colossal size but also for its striking blue and gold colors, emblematic of the House of Nassau.
Hidden 'Gothic' Treasures
As I inquire with the church’s hostess for any lesser-known insights into the church, her eyes light up. “There are at least three,” she says while guiding me toward the choir. She pauses beside one of the intricately carved Gothic choir stalls, known as ‘miserere seats.’ However, instead of a medieval scene with a dragon or a craftsman, this one depicts a Polish soldier aiming his gun on a German soldier. “Many visitors often overlook this,” she explains. “Two of the misericords were replaced with contemporary scenes just after World War II, in honor of the Polish forces who liberated Breda.”
The Bastard’s Tomb
Beyond the grand Nassau tombs in the Grote Kerk, an obscure tomb monument also captures our attention. We proceed to a chapel on the north side where, beneath a wooden floor, Jan de Bastaard of Nassau’s grave was discovered in 1902.
Jan, who passed away in 1505, was the son of Count Jan IV of Nassau and a lady named Loemel. As the Count was not married to Loemel, Jan of Nassau was famously known as Jan de Bastaard, emphasizing his illegitimate status. His tomb monument portrays him in a state of undress, shrouded in a burial cloth, divested of all signs of dignity. Curiously, his lower legs seem to be amputated, creating a rather eerie image.
Family-friendly visit
Despite the slightly macabre scene, the Grote Kerk is an excellent destination to visit with children. Guided tours and treasure hunts are available.
So, if you plan a day trip to Breda, be sure not to miss this monument. It’s not just a splendid architectural gem (recently beautifully restored), but it also offers profound insights into Dutch history. Highly recommended!
