If you’ve ever stepped into a Gothic church and wondered about the mysterious spaces high above, behind those seemingly inaccessible doors, then the ‘Secrets of the Attic’ tour is your chance to satisfy that curiosity. It’s an adventure through the triforium, attic, and rooftop of the Utrecht Dom Church.
The Utrecht Dom: Gothic Marvel
The Dom, until the Reformatie the catholic St. Martin’s Cathedral, is nestled right in the heart of the city and is frequently open to the public. I visited this church many times already.
As a child, I always wondered if it would be possible to walk up there, high above everyone, through that narrow passage behind the ‘arches’ of the triforium. What was once inaccessible and remained shrouded in mystery can now be explored – the attic and triforium.
Our journey to the triforium commences on a rainy Saturday afternoon (note: the guided tours are normally on Sunday afternoons). A small group of eight, including my son and myself, gathers in the Domcafe. Our enthusiastic guide, Wim, begins by sharing intriguing insights into the church’s history.
The adventure kicks off at a small door that leads to a narrow, whitewashed staircase, which ascends to the former bellows room (once housing an organ in the south transept). Here, we are each provided with white construction helmets, an exclusive touch that adds to the sense of anticipation.
As we continue our ascent with this small group, heading toward the triforium that had previously only existed in our imaginations, today was the day it would become real.
Triforium: the Cathedral's Secret Passway
After passing through another small door, we suddenly find ourselves in a narrow passageway, 16 meters above the ground – the triforium. ‘Triforium’ literally means ‘three openings,’ but the Dom Church features four. This architectural element is commonly found in Gothic churches, much like the Dom Church. Gothic architecture is all about creating an impression of light and verticality, making you feel like you’re reaching up to the heavens. Slim windows, high vaults with pointed arches, and the lines leading from the ground to the pillars to the cross arches against the ceiling contribute to this feeling.
Sometimes triforia are “blind,” creating an optical illusion of arches adhered to the walls. However, in the Dom Church, it’s a real corridor, barely a meter wide, allowing us to walk single-file.
A View to Behold
I was already quite familiar with the interior of the Dom church. But the view from the triforium, situated 16 meters above the church, offers an entirely new perspective. From here, I gaze down upon the choir, the transept with the grand Bätz organ against the wall (my grandfather played it back in the days). Even on this gray autumn day, the large stained glass windows (from 1926) bring in magnificent light.
I can only imagine how vast this church must have been prior to 1674 when a storm leveled the nave. While this catastrophe may have been caused by a downburst, inferior materials, and flawed construction methods also played their part. Yet, even without the nave, the space remains breathtaking.
Secrets of the Attic
Now, we venture up to the attic. The atmosphere is reminiscent of exploring the attic in an old house: dust, wooden beams, and just enough light to see where you’re walking. My son is almost tempted to play hide-and-seek. We traverse wooden walkways, peering down at the tops of the small radiating chapels (I do have photo’s, but you have to see for yourself. Until then, it remains a secret ;). Bags of lime and other materials are strewn about, as if they were used just yesterday. “You’re never finished here,” Wim tells us.
Then, suddenly, we arrive on the roof. I’m face to face with flying buttresses. Moss-covered gargoyles gaze sternly into the gray sky. Over the past years, significant restoration work has been carried out here, including on the flying buttresses. Two of them have been replaced. Rust has been removed, resulting from the use of iron-bearing natural stone. Remarkable are the terracotta repairs from the 19th century, which not everyone is pleased with. It has been decided to keep it this way, for now.
Intimate Journey through the Dom Church
It almost feels intimate to wander through the intricate veins of the Dom Church. You can observe stones that a stonemason carved his signature into over 770 years ago. Yet, up close, you also realize how fragile such a structure can be and how essential it is to maintain continuous upkeep, if we want our children and their children to enjoy this majestic church.
The Secrets of the Attic guided tour changed my view on the Domkerk. I wholeheartedly recommend it to everyone. Guided tours of the Dom’s triforium can be booked online. Advance reservations are necessary. The cost is €17.50 per person, and for children (12 and older), it’s €12.50. Please note that it’s not accessible for those with mobility issues. Click more information and reservations.
Triforium: 7 Facts About This Hidden Cathedral Gallery
The triforium is one of the most overlooked yet fascinating elements of Gothic cathedrals. In this article, we uncover 7 surprising facts about the triforium.
About the UTRECHT Dom church
- Building period: 1254-
- Length: 119 m (originally, before the 1674 disaster)
- High (vault): 31,5 m
The iconic ‘Domkerk’ in Utrecht, the Netherlands, is is one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture in the Netherlands. Moreover, it is the only building that closely resembles the classical French Gothic style.
“D.O.M.” stands for “Deo Optimo Maximo,” which translates to “To the Best and Greatest God.” Simultaneously, “Dom” is derived from the Latin word “domus,” meaning “house (and in this case) of God.” The Utrecht Dom was once a cathedral until the Protestants took over the church during the Reformation in the 16th century. Read also the Q&A about the meaning of ‘cathedral’ and more.
The construction took 266 years and began around 1254. The cathedral replaced the Romanesque cathedral that once stood on the site. The foundations can still be seen under the ground. In 1295, the awe-inspiring choir ambulatory was completed, albeit with some modifications due to limited space for radiating chapels, influenced by the surrounding buildings to the east.
The layout of the choir ambulatory with its shallow radiating chapels is reminiscent of the Soissons Cathedral, while its verticality is more akin to the Cologne Cathedral.
LUX Travel Tips
- Book your highlights self-guided scavenger hunt and tour (4,5 / 5 rating). You will be taken along several highlights including the Dom Church. Just bring your own phone. Several languages available! Adults: 6 euro.
- Sleep in a church! Just a stone’s throw from the station you’ll find Bunk, an old church that has now been transformed into a bar, restaurant, and hotel. A 10-minute walk from the Dom Church. Book your room here.
- Do you prefer something more classy? Try Hotel Karel V. The former monastery has been transformed into the chicest hotel in Utrecht, boasting no less than five stars. Yes, you’ll certainly sleep like a baby here. Karel V also has a Michelin-starred restaurant, a cozy bistro, and beautiful gardens.
