Strasbourg Cathedral (or: Notre-Dame de Strasbourg) stands as a striking landmark in the heart of the city’s historic old town. Its majestic presence can be seen from afar as you wander through the charming streets. Join me as we delve into the highlights of this cathedral, uncover its rich history, and explore the remarkable details within. As always, this article ends with Three Insiders Tips! (and if you can, check out my travel tips, down below!)
Notre-Dame de Strasbourg: 250 years of building history
Before we embark on this journey, let’s delve into the cathedral’s construction for a bit (if you don’t know exactly what ‘cathedral’ means: we’ll explain it to you!). It took an astonishing 250 years to complete this architectural masterpiece.
In 1015, construction began on a new three-aisled Romanesque cathedral, which was completed around 1050. However, in the 12th century, this building was affected by several fires and the church became too small for the growing population of Strasbourg.
For these reasons, it was decided to build a new Münster church. The term “Münster” was used in the German Empire to indicate that the chapter was in the hands of a monastic order, derived from the Latin “monasterium.”
After 1176, the renovation of the choir and transept began. The Romanesque nave remained in use until 1250, after which it was demolished to make way for a new nave in Gothic style. This lengthy construction period led to a unique mix of styles, although the Gothic influence ultimately dominates.
Approaching the Strasbourg Cathedral
As you approach the Strasbourg Cathedral from Rue Merciere, the view is simply phenomenal. The picturesque street is lined with charming timber-framed houses, leading your gaze to the towering 142-meter-high cathedral. From 1647 to 1874, it held the title of the world’s tallest structure. You can choose to take a right turn and ascend the tower’s terrace.
The west facade of Strasbourg Cathedral boasts grandeur and height. What immediately stands out on the exterior of the cathedral is the impressive verticality. The lines of the façade and towers seem to reach endlessly towards the sky, a typical feature of Gothic architecture.
Notably, the facade’s dark pink sandstone sets it apart from the whiter cathedrals found elsewhere in France. The façade is richly decorated with sculptures and rosettes that reflect both the architectural and spiritual aspirations of the medieval people.
Obscene details you won't expect
Adorned with an abundance of sculptures and reliefs depicting scenes from the Bible, this portal is a true masterpiece. Its three doors are adorned with exquisite statues of apostles and saints, while above them, even more captivating sculptures and reliefs await.
What might escape many visitors’ notice are the peculiar, even borderline obscene, details. As I examine the tympanum of the central portal once more, just above the left door, I spot a depiction of hell, with the devil unmistakably tending to his large cauldron. Hanging to the left of the cauldron is Judas, nearly at the end of his rope. To the right of the cauldron, an exposed anus makes an unexpected appearance.
However, the intrigue deepens as we look up. Above, a child urinates onto the bare buttocks below. The story takes a less humorous turn here: it is said to be a reference to Bishop Gamil Blosarsch, who was expelled from the church for abusing altar boys.
Inside the Cathedral: organ, clock and dog
Inside, the verticality continues. The vaults rise high above the ground, supported by slender pillars that create a sense of lightness and space. The high windows with their colorful stained glass create a play of light and shadow that feels almost mystical.
Your eyes will be drawn to the organ, boasting over 2,602 pipes, some dating back to the 15th century. Silbermann rebuilt the interior between 1713-1716, but the organ is recorded as existing already in 1260. Remarkably, the casings remained intact due to budget constraints, redirected towards cathedral roof repairs. In 1981, Alfred Kern replaced the interior once again.
The cathedral’s stained glass windows are a sight to behold, illustrating biblical scenes with vibrant colors and intricate details. My absolute highlight is the large 13 meter diameter rose window (build 1310-1320) on the west side. It bathes the church in stunning light during the afternoon. Keep an eye out for the mysterious green beam of light; it is said to shine through the foot of Judah in the green glass, precisely onto the head of Jesus on the pulpit. UPDATE: The stained glass will no longer produce a distinctive green ray seen just twice a year, on the spring and autumn equinoxes, after the precise pane was replaced during renovations.
The Astronomical Clock
One of the cathedral’s treasures is the enormous astronomical clock, constructed in the 16th century and still functioning today. This clock not only tells the time but also displays the date and the positions of the sun, moon, and stars. Every hour, it orchestrates a delightful display featuring figurines of apostles, kings, and angels.
Details within the cathedral are equally captivating. Take, for instance, the numerous sculptures. A charming detail is the little dog that gazes at you from the pulpit’s staircase. Legend has it that this was the dog of the renowned preacher Jean Geiler from Kaysersberg, faithfully waiting for his master to finish his sermon each day.
Three Insiders Tips for Your next Visit
Having explored Strasbourg Cathedral, I can attest that it is a true masterpiece. Its Gothic architecture, colorful windows, grand organ, and various artworks create a breathtaking experience.
Here are three Do’s when visiting the cathedral:
- Approach the cathedral from Rue Merciere for a magnificent view of the facade.
- Examine the west facade closely, where you’ll find a peculiar and nearly obscene scene of a urinating boy above a bare bottom on the central tympanum.
- While you can’t climb the 142-meter-high tower, you can visit the observation platform of the southern tower. Be prepared to ascend 332 steps for a truly rewarding experience.
LUX Travel Tips
- Book your guided audio tour to explore the cathedral on your own!
- In August you can hear several Strasbourg organs, including the Silbermann organ, during the Festival des Orgues de Strasbourg.
- Strasbourg = Elzas = Wine. Make sure you taste some of this delicious wine, for example with this Wine tour. It’s a half-day tour along the Alsace wine route to discover some of the best wines of France. Visit 2 wineries, learn about the 7 types of Alsace wines.
The cathedral bells as your wake up call… That’s what you experience in Hôtel Cathédrale. Fair price, just opposite to the cathedral, comfortable beds.
If you prefer an apartment, try this: Le Carré d’or – a 70m2 apartment sleeping 4 / 5 people, just 1 minute from the cathedral.
- I stayed once on a very nice campsite just outside the city centre of Strasbourg. From there, you can easily bike (you can rent them at the camp site) or take a bus.
